 |
|
11-06-2008, 01:40 AM
|
#21
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location: IL
Posts: 3,440
|
Man...I bent the tubing without a bender....my hands are frickin sore! I kinked it a couple times on accident, but it all fits. No way could I coil it at 3", more like 4-5. I did my best to cram it all into a 6" stovepipe, and I put a flattened elbow at the top. It looks kinda cool, sorta like a supercharger. I guess I'll try it when I brew on saturday.
On another note, how did you guys cut the bottom off your cornies? I have a jigsaw and a cutoff tool, but I worry about doing it on such a rounded surface.
|
|
|
|
11-06-2008, 01:46 AM
|
#22
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Jenison, MI
Posts: 2,870
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by ScubaSteve
Man...I bent the tubing without a bender....my hands are frickin sore! I kinked it a couple times on accident, but it all fits. No way could I coil it at 3", more like 4-5. I did my best to cram it all into a 6" stovepipe, and I put a flattened elbow at the top. It looks kinda cool, sorta like a supercharger. I guess I'll try it when I brew on saturday.
On another note, how did you guys cut the bottom off your cornies? I have a jigsaw and a cutoff tool, but I worry about doing it on such a rounded surface.
|
When I rolled mine I rolled it around a 4" pvc pipe and it was easy until I started rolling it back down over the coils.
To cut the keg I used my sawzall with a 12 inch blade.
__________________
TWO FISTED BREWING CO.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mr_cad
Its nice when you and your friends have comparable equipment.
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Walker-san
some people will tap anything that has a hole.
|
Buy Two Fisted Brewing gear
|
|
|
|
|
11-06-2008, 01:54 AM
|
#23
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Mesa Az /Turner, Oregon, Arizona most of the time
Posts: 2,119
|
It is easier to wind the tube around the 3-4" pipe, then un bend coils to an oval shape, then adjust angle between ovals to overlap the coils to eliminate the chimney effect. I cheated and used a pipe threading machine to rotate pipe and controlled the coil winding tension by gripping the SS tubing while wearing leather gloves.
Last edited by kladue; 11-06-2008 at 01:57 AM.
|
|
|
|
|
11-06-2008, 02:43 AM
|
#24
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Milwaukee WI / Mankato MN
Posts: 369
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by kladue
It is easier to wind the tube around the 3-4" pipe, then un bend coils to an oval shape, then adjust angle between ovals to overlap the coils to eliminate the chimney effect. I cheated and used a pipe threading machine to rotate pipe and controlled the coil winding tension by gripping the SS tubing while wearing leather gloves.
|
That is soooo cheating..... as punishment I think you should send it to me |
|
|
|
|
11-06-2008, 03:02 AM
|
#25
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Mesa Az /Turner, Oregon, Arizona most of the time
Posts: 2,119
|
I suppose I have an unfair advantage in the boiler building area as supervising industrial instrumentation installation projects has side benefits in tools and material leftovers.
|
|
|
|
|
11-06-2008, 03:20 AM
|
#26
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Vermont
Posts: 1,803
|
hey kladue, where did you source your MFC?
|
|
|
|
|
11-06-2008, 03:56 AM
|
#27
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Mesa Az /Turner, Oregon, Arizona most of the time
Posts: 2,119
|
For the boiler it is a STEC SEC 4500 20 LPM flow, and main burner is a STEC SEC 4550 30 LPM flow. These were purchased on Ebay for about $75 each a couple years ago for use on the phase 2 brewery system. These units require +15V and -15V power and a 0-5VDC control signal. Other manufacturers have units that use a single 24V supply and have similar flow ranges.
|
|
|
|
|
11-06-2008, 11:36 AM
|
#28
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location: IL
Posts: 3,440
|
I can't believe more people aren't doing this in their rigs. There's some obvious kinks to work out, but it's a relatively small unit and it actually has a worthwhile function. I see stirrers, etc. added to rigs, but I'm not sure about the real benefit.
We'll see how my version turns out. I pretty much mangled the tubing, but it looks like it'll still flow. I may eventally end up scrapping it after I work the bugs out and going with 2-4 10 ft sections. I figure 10 feet is probably easier to manage than 25, and then you can just interlace the coils and hook them up to the in/out tees.
|
|
|
|
|
11-06-2008, 12:23 PM
|
#29
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Milwaukee WI / Mankato MN
Posts: 369
|
I plan on makeing one oncew school is over and I have the money
|
|
|
|
|
11-06-2008, 02:10 PM
|
#30
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Palmer MA
Posts: 350
|
This has really got me thinking. My problem is my entire set up is electric. I already have an external heat exchanger for my HERMS but it only has about 18' of 1/2 copper in there. I wonder if I use my EHLT and my HERMS heat exchanger in conjunction if I will be able to lower the time it takes to heat my water. I was thinking of having the HLT filled with water and the heating element on and pumping that through the heat exchanger and back to the HLT. I think that it should cut some time off, granted it will not be as fast as the flash boiler but should help.
mike
|
|
|
|
| Thread Tools |
|
|
| Display Modes |
 Linear Mode
|
|
|
