Tim27

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Any reason why I shouldn't go with the 15 gallon polarware? From all I have read 15 gallon is the right size pot for the eventual plunge into 10 gallon batches. I just don't want to spend 100 dollars more on the blichmann. Are there any major problems people are having with their polarware kettles?


Thanks, Tim

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SpikeBrewing

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Because there are much cheaper options out there... What are you looking for in the kettle? Tri-bottom/signal layer? Welded or weldless?

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Tim27

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I dont see an advantage to tri bottom kettles, at least for me. Same thing with welded versus non welded. I am not that great a do it yourselfer so I dont want to have to install my own fittings. I like the Penrose kettle just wish it had a lid.

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On Deck: Blonde Ale (First All Grain)
Primary#1 Graff#5
Primary#2 Empty
Primary#3 Empty
Secondary: Empty
Bottled: Tim's Dry Stout, Brewcrafters Kit Irish Stout

jetmac

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Tri-clad bottom helps to keep from scorching your wort when getting it to boil. For a 10 gallon batch, I would think it would take quite a bit of heat to get it to boil.

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Originally Posted by Revvy>>You shouldn't worry about ANYTHING...you didn't hurt the yeast, just put it to sleep. They know what they need to do, they want to eat all that sugar they are swimming around in. They want to pee alcohol and fart co2, it's their nature.

Originally Posted by Bobby_M>>I flood the keg with CO2 for one minute with the lid off, rack the beer in to the bottom gently, seal it, flood it, vent it. If there's still O2 in there after that, F it.

SpikeBrewing

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I also agree on the tri-bottom not being needed (but many people want to spend the extra money). As for welded vs non welded.... If you're not a do-it-yourselfer than welded is the way to go. No need to drill holes, install, etc with the weldless fittings. Also no worries that your fittings will ever leak.

I also like the Penrose kettle. Great height to width ratio and made in the USA. I would also urge you to look at our kettles. You won't beat the price.

-Ben

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godrick

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Have a polarware kettle and love it. For what it's worth I'd go with 20 gals if you plan on 10 gal batches. I bought a 15 gal kettle so that I could do 10 gal batches (which require almost a 14 gal boil volume) and found a hassle worrying about boil-overs. Just this week I upgraded to a 20 gal stockpot.

My system:
Boil 13.5 gal
boil off -2 gal +-
trube/dead space -.5 gal
to fermenters 11 gal 5.5 +5.5
to kegs 10 gal 5 + 5

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lpdjshaw

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Yeah, you can do a 10 gal batch in a 15 gal BK but you will have to keep a close eye on it for boil overs. I do 7.5 gal batches with a keggle and it works great. As for the tri-clad bottom, I guess you could scorch the wort without it but you could save a lot of money by getting a single layer botom and just stir 'till you get to the boil stage.

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jaba

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I have a 15 gallon Bayou Classic stainlesskettle, single layer (found a "dented" one on ebay for about $100, it had a small one inch dent on the bottom edge). Never have problems with scorching, has worked like a champ since day one. Drilled my own holes in it for weldless fittings.

beertastic

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I'll tack on to this thread with a couple questions of my own:

1) How much boil-off difference can expect from a wider/fatter kettle vs. a taller one?

2) Is there a difference in cooling time with an immersion chiller? I feel like a taller kettle would cool quicker if the wort chiller was stretched taller, vs. a fatter kettle with a shorter, fatter wort chiller (I figure I'm gonna have to modify my chiller for whatever kettle I guy)? This is speculation.

Tim27

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Spikebrewing, how do your pots stack up to Polarware as far as guage of steel? Are yours as sturdy as theirs? Where are your pots manufactured?

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"Controlled Chaos Brewing Co."


On Deck: Blonde Ale (First All Grain)
Primary#1 Graff#5
Primary#2 Empty
Primary#3 Empty
Secondary: Empty
Bottled: Tim's Dry Stout, Brewcrafters Kit Irish Stout