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Old 12-15-2008, 08:10 PM   #11
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I assume you are batch sparging. If you are fly sparging the dead space under the false bottom really doesn't matter because it'll just be very dilute wort anyway.


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Old 12-15-2008, 08:14 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by robumba View Post
I assume you are batch sparging. If you are fly sparging the dead space under the false bottom really doesn't matter because it'll just be very dilute wort anyway.
Yes batch sparging. I still might have a chance to return this one because it looks like no one has ever seen a commercial acquired MLT that is built like mine, and I figure that is a bad sign. The guy is local and if he doesn't come up with some pretty good solution I'm gonna press to just send it back and pick one up on more beer maybe. I was going for a FB so I could upgrade to fly sparging at a later date possibly.

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Old 12-15-2008, 09:02 PM   #13
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Ok, if returning it is an option, I'd do it. The first problem that I didn't mention earlier is that the amount of open space in that design seems really low (something like 25%) due to the large amounts of space between slots. The perforated (round hole) style would be better. In any case however, you don't need a false bottom to batch sparge. It's more trouble than it's worth when a simple stainless braid or manifold would work wonders.
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Old 12-15-2008, 11:27 PM   #14
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If you set your false bottom on a flat surface, at its highest point (the middle I hope) how much space is under it. Mine only has between 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch and i'm wondering if this is normal, since I'm having some issues.

P.S it is a 10 gallon round cooler type false bottom.
23/32 " measured from the upper surface of the false bottom or 21/32 " measured from the lower surface.

-a.
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Old 12-16-2008, 04:30 AM   #15
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Ok, if returning it is an option, I'd do it. The first problem that I didn't mention earlier is that the amount of open space in that design seems really low (something like 25%) due to the large amounts of space between slots. The perforated (round hole) style would be better. In any case however, you don't need a false bottom to batch sparge. It's more trouble than it's worth when a simple stainless braid or manifold would work wonders.
I was trying to think ahead for fly sparging. You guys have helped alot. I'm going to look into returning the whole setup. Looks like I went local and got local to save 10 bucks. I don't want to get down on the guys yet, we will see what they say.
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Old 12-26-2008, 09:15 PM   #16
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I have the same false bottom as the OP, I bought it from my LHBS but it came with a rigid SS pickup tube compression fittings and elbows that go from the ball valve to the false bottom.

I was having trouble getting a siphon from below the false bottom. The pickup tube elbow connection to the false bottom is the problem area. My elbow at the FB is threaded and goes just below the FB. There is a nut that is used to apply pressure, but not actually attach to the FB. I got it right and had great suction from the slots, it is not perminataly mounted and I can remove it easily for cleaning and drying.

I and the OP could mount it permanent-ly but do folks actually just leave the false bottom in all the time?

Last edited by amishland; 12-26-2008 at 09:20 PM. Reason: type-o
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Old 12-26-2008, 09:18 PM   #17
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here is a link to my LHBS and the description on why the slots are used
12" Stainless Steel Domed False Bottom

Our 12 " Stainless Steel domed False Bottom is commonly used in 10 Gallon Igloo Coolers.
The 16% open design contributes to better efficiency and a clearer sparge.

Add-on our false bottom assembly which includes all fittings from the false bottom through to the ball valve.

Our compression fitting design incorporate a stainless steel tube which essentiaslly "Hard Plumbs" the false bottom into place. The false bottom will NOT float.

If you are mashing in a cooler, this is the premier false bottom for you


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