Photopilot

Recipes 

I am working out the details of my keggle. Based on suggestions here I am going electric. A little history I just did my first AG beer and just spent today watching a pro brew at home. My list of needed toys has just grown.

My plan was to add a 1/2" nipple with another one with a site gauge and thermometer in one outlet.

I am looking to build a system with a cooler for a HLT, I have a cooler MLT. I want one boiler with a pump to control it all. After seeing the pro at work but trying it in a simplified way I am thinking I need a few more holes in my Keggle.

Here is my plan.

4 1/2" nipples

Output nipple at bottom
Input nipple higher up for recirculating for cooling
Site gauge & thermometer nipple in one
Thermocoupler nipple for a PID or SSR combo later

1" half coupler
for water heater inlet

Here's the catch. I have an easy shift this week and I have found someone that does sanitary welds. If I can figure this out ASAP and get the parts ordered i can have this done this week otherwise it may take a month or more to finish.

Is this too many nipples?
Can I put a thermocoupler in conjunction with the site gauge? Will this actually tell me the temp or just work with the PID and SSR to monitor a boil? What about the middle nipple for recirculation, anyone recommend this? I plan to add as many as I may need and cap them until I develop the whole system.

CodeRage

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I have a 1" hole for the element, a 1/4" hole for the RTD probe, a 1/2" pick up and a 1/2" return, and can't remember the sight gauge size..

I wanted the sight gauge and element ports out of sight so if you are standing in front of the keg, the element is at 12 o'clock and the RTD is at 2 o'clock. Get the element as low as possible, I put the probe at the 2.5 gallon mark.

The sight gauge port is as low as possible but it is at the 7:30 position. If you want to put a thermometer on it you can get one with 1/4" threads. so just use some kind of threaded T for the sight tube base to accept it, keep you from drilling an additional hole.

The pick up tube and returns are at the 6 o clock, the pick up is located as low as possible and the return is at the 5 gallon mark. In hind sight I should have put the return no higher than the 4 gallon mark, nothing a little silicone tubing wont fix.
Also, with the pick up straight across from the element, measure how much clearance you have between the pick up and the element. Using a LLWD element it would just touch the street elbow of the pick up. Moving the element 15 deg one way or another would have eliminated this.

__________________
Brutus 20e build | Electrical Primer for Brewers | Auber SYL-2362A2 PID Install & Config
So as I am walking out the door this morning I think to my self:
"self, going to work on Monday is like knowing you're going to get kicked in the nuts. You just don't know when or by who"

Ohio-Ed

Recipes 

I think CodeRage meant he has the Element and RTD probes out of sight...

I have mine setup very similar. I have not used the BK yet, still in the build process. I did put my element at the 10:30 position for the very reason CodeRage mentioned (to keep the end of the element away from the pickup tube), and my temp probe is at 1:30.

Keep in mind that you can always fill any couplings you don't use right away with a plug...

Good luck with your build.
Ed

CodeRage

Recipes 

Hehe Thanks for the catch Ed. Was a long day yesterday.

__________________
Brutus 20e build | Electrical Primer for Brewers | Auber SYL-2362A2 PID Install & Config
So as I am walking out the door this morning I think to my self:
"self, going to work on Monday is like knowing you're going to get kicked in the nuts. You just don't know when or by who"

Photopilot

Recipes 

Thanks Guys,
As I said just wanted to make sure I had enough hardware and holes in my keggle. Until yesterday I was only planning on two 1/2" nipples but now feel like all the nipples I mentioned are a good idea.

I saw a link in one of the build pages a few days ago but can't find it now. Where can i find a 1" half coupling to weld in the element?

Also I have seen a PID will diplay temperature. Can I get the thermocoupler to run through a T in the same location as the site tube, or should i have a big thermometer to look at besides the Probe for the PID?

If in doubt that another hole will be needed I plan on putting it in and capping until my system gets that sophisticated.

CodeRage

Recipes 

I don't use a thermometer on mine, just the PID readout. The thought to add one has never crossed my mind so I would say that I don't think it is needed.

Auber has some nice RTDs with disconnects that have a liquid tight 1/4 NPT threads on it. You could use that in conjunction with your sight gauge.

__________________
Brutus 20e build | Electrical Primer for Brewers | Auber SYL-2362A2 PID Install & Config
So as I am walking out the door this morning I think to my self:
"self, going to work on Monday is like knowing you're going to get kicked in the nuts. You just don't know when or by who"

Ohio-Ed

Recipes 

Tell me you didn't have another midnight brew going....

MrBurd

Recipes 

Let's go easy with the term "pro", eh. RT process is a local company that deals in stainless parts of all kinds; I'd give them a try. Also did you ask Fox? He might have a line.

Glad I got some wheels spinning.

Ohio-Ed

Recipes 

+1 I do not plan on having thermometers in any of my vessels, just temp probes.

I did see a thread here recently (might have been yesterday), from a user that found (on ebay), a thermometer/sending unit combo. I don't remember the details, but it has a dial thermo and electrical connections in one unit.

Ed

Photopilot

Recipes 

If you got paid to brew, even if it was underpaid, you are a pro.

Thanks for the informative brew session yesterday. Got lots of great ideas and an new longer brewing shopping list.