Spike Brewing 12.5 Conical Fermenter Giveaway - Enter Now!

Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Equipment/Sanitation > diy ball valve

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
Old 03-08-2012, 05:03 PM   #1
macr023
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: macr023, Quebec
Posts: 16
Default diy ball valve

I am in the process of installing a ball valve on my PP bucket.

I understand there are a lot of places online that sell kits, but I strongly believe in supporting local business. Also I like the idea of outsourcing locally.

Here are two pictures of what I have setup so far.



This is how I want to mount it.

Valve | washer | bucket wall | o-ring | washer | reducer




My concern is the seal between the inside washer and reducer. I noticed some kits you buy online are setup similarly, I just want to confirm if this looks ok. The surface of the reducer where it comes into contact of the washer is machined nice and flat.

Another option I was thinking of is just get a snug fit o-ring, place it on the reducer, slide it through the bucket wall from inside to out, and then from outside have valve | washer

The reason for using inside and outside washers is for reinforcement as the bucket wall is plastic (polypropylene) It gets a little soft at hotter temps and with a heavy ball valve it can sag a little, i've seen pics / videos online of this.

__________________

Last edited by macr023; 03-09-2012 at 01:57 AM.
macr023 is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-08-2012, 10:07 PM   #2
BargainFittings
Vendor
HBT_SPONSOR.png
Feedback Score: 1 reviews
 
BargainFittings's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Allen TX
Posts: 1,874
Liked 40 Times on 35 Posts
Likes Given: 3

Default

A washer against an o-ring tends to leak pretty easily.
The o-ring will twist and push away from the threads and water will leak past the washer rim and out the hole.

A flat gasket would work a little better with that type of setup.

If you can solder the washer to the reducer and then use a flat gasket you will not have any issue.

BargainFittings is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-09-2012, 10:26 AM   #3
macr023
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: macr023, Quebec
Posts: 16
Default

Have people had success without soldering the washer the way described above ?

__________________
macr023 is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-09-2012, 11:28 AM   #4
BargainFittings
Vendor
HBT_SPONSOR.png
Feedback Score: 1 reviews
 
BargainFittings's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Allen TX
Posts: 1,874
Liked 40 Times on 35 Posts
Likes Given: 3

Default

I have not tested with just a washer and a gasket without soldering.

When you add a metal washer and then a seal (gasket or o-ring) they tend not to push around the nipple at the hole so water can seep past the metal washer around its hole and then out the hole in the cooler wall.

Soldering it to the nipple creates a water tight bulkhead.
In our standard kits with a locknut, there is a groove in the locknut that keeps the o-ring seated around the nipple.

There is an entire thread on soldering stainless steel here:
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/soldering-stainless-steel-155782/

BargainFittings is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-09-2012, 01:49 PM   #5
shortyjacobs
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Twin Cities, MN
Posts: 2,511
Liked 29 Times on 29 Posts
Likes Given: 3

Default

Why not just try it, and see if it leaks? I made all my bulkheads from random crap I bought at Lowes, (not to pull away from Wayne at BF - he's got good stuff, and it probably would have been cheaper in the end to go with him). Sometimes took a bit of trial and error, no two are a like, but none leak now. I have used o-rings, bushings, and flat rubber washers. Typically you can get them to seal with enough fiddling.

One tip - don't crank down too tight on the o-ring. It will definitely bulge out then.

__________________
Itchy Dog Brewery.

(As of 10-24-2011)
Primary - Steppe 112 PA, 2x Monday RyePA
Aging - None :-(
On tap - Big Dog, Apfelwein, Steppe 112 PA

My invisible AG sculpture, with no actual sculpture and a tiny footprint.
My Kegerator goes offroading!
My Coors Home Draft dispenser for boating/beering on the go.
shortyjacobs is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-09-2012, 02:18 PM   #6
macr023
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: macr023, Quebec
Posts: 16
Default

I just posted a reply but don't see it, maybe replies with pictures need to be approved by admin, I will try again.

Wayne: Thanks for the help. Can I solder a stainless washer to a brass fitting ?

Also what do you think about this order.

valve | washer | bucket wall | o-ring | reducer

I will have to get a smaller o-ring, but the reducer is pretty much acting as a bulkhead. I just wanted to add the washer for reinforcement, but it seems I can get away with just one side with a washer.

shortyjacobs: I might run the test tonight with washer, either way I think I will be drilling the same size hole to fit the 3/8 brass fitting. I agree with you it would be cheaper getting from online, but not only do I find that I spend too much online and end up not using, there are many little reasons, such as, I am choosing 3/8 size valve because the bucket gets a little soft when heated and 1/2 valves will cause significant sag. Also I am enjoying outsourcing form local stores and supporting local business is always a +. I actually purchased recently from UK ebay three polypropylene taps which the guy advertised usable with watterbutt barrels and kegs etc... since I saw keg I guessed food grade. After receiving them and contacted the manufacturer which was richards & sankey, they claim their taps are not food grade. How ever there is another company that sells identical taps by waddington & duval that are food grade. So in the end I am deciding to try and piece out locally, I like holding my part in hand as I try out different possible fittings.

__________________
macr023 is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-09-2012, 02:25 PM   #7
Bobby_M
Vendor and Brewer
HBT_SPONSOR.png
Vendor Ads 
Feedback Score: 2 reviews
 
Bobby_M's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Whitehouse Station, NJ
Posts: 21,904
Liked 940 Times on 626 Posts
Likes Given: 28

Default

A tight fitting flat gasket between the bucket wall and reducer will seal. The oring MAY work if it doesn't squish out from behind the flange in the reducer. Wayne is right in that you can't put a metal washer against another metal fitting on the wet side of a bulkhead and expect a seal. Liquid goes between them, finds the threads and spirals past all gaskets.

__________________
BrewHardware.com
Sightglass, Refractometer, Ball Valve, Weldless bulkhead, Thermometer, Decals, Stainless Steel Fittings, Compression Fittings, Camlock Quick Disconnects, Scale, RIMS tube, Plate Chiller, Chugger Pump, Super Clear Silicone Tubing, and more!

New Stuff?
Bobby_M is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-09-2012, 03:43 PM   #8
macr023
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: macr023, Quebec
Posts: 16
Default

So I have the choice of soldering the washer to the fitting and attempt with my existing buna-n o-ring, or use the reducer as a bulkhead with a smaller o-ring/gasket. Since I cannot find silicone gaskets near me (yet), I might try and make my own silicone gasket. I saw a youtube vid where a guy buys a silicone baking sheet and punches out center holes using a small pipe and then uses a washer as a template to cut the outer circle. The sheet is food grade and rated to 450 Fahrenheit.

__________________
macr023 is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-09-2012, 03:51 PM   #9
Bobby_M
Vendor and Brewer
HBT_SPONSOR.png
Vendor Ads 
Feedback Score: 2 reviews
 
Bobby_M's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Whitehouse Station, NJ
Posts: 21,904
Liked 940 Times on 626 Posts
Likes Given: 28

Default

Soldering at minimum will cost you some Harris Stay Clean liquid flux if you've already got a propane torch and some lead free solder.

__________________
BrewHardware.com
Sightglass, Refractometer, Ball Valve, Weldless bulkhead, Thermometer, Decals, Stainless Steel Fittings, Compression Fittings, Camlock Quick Disconnects, Scale, RIMS tube, Plate Chiller, Chugger Pump, Super Clear Silicone Tubing, and more!

New Stuff?
Bobby_M is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-09-2012, 04:12 PM   #10
macr023
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: macr023, Quebec
Posts: 16
Default

I have access to a torch. As for flux and solder, I will have to purchase. I think I will try with just using the reducer on the wet side with a home made silicone washer. If I see I need more sidewall support, I will try and solder the washer to the fitting.

__________________
macr023 is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Reply


Quick Reply
Message:
Options
Thread Tools


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Ball Valve or Not? natefrog255 Equipment/Sanitation 20 04-09-2012 01:32 AM
Propane valve - use ball valve ? adam01 Equipment/Sanitation 2 05-23-2011 09:46 PM
Ball valve vs. Gate valve for MLT, have question JRems Equipment/Sanitation 4 04-11-2011 01:40 AM
SS ball valve balto charlie Equipment/Sanitation 3 08-13-2008 06:28 PM
Why do I need a Ball Valve on my Pot evandam Equipment/Sanitation 19 04-30-2008 05:37 PM