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Old 01-08-2013, 06:06 PM   #1
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Default determining which quick disconnects to get...

I'm about to order some fittings for all my brew equipment upgrades and have a couple of questions. Everything is 1/2", mostly male, ports. I'm trying to determine which type of quick disconnects to get, any recommendations? Tri clover? camlocks? Something else?

On the blichmann auto sparge i'm thinking of putting a T on it with ball valves on either end of that. The HLT will gravity feed into the T from the top and the pump will recirculate into the T from the bottom and I was thinking I needed ball valves on both ends of that T? Otherwise the sparge would just go down into the recirc line instead of the kettle?
I'll put a quick disconnect on the T so that I can also route the pump from the mash to the boil kettle.

Ball valves on the outputs of the pumps?

I also have a blichmann hop rocket that will be used sometimes and a plate chiller that will always be used. Also a pump to move the wort through that.

Also, what at the best clamps to secure the fittings to the 1/2" silicon tubing?

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Old 01-09-2013, 05:52 AM   #2
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Having used quite a few different quick connects, The best by far are the cam locks for a brewhouse (in my opinion). Cheaper than poly and tri clover, durable, won't melt, one handed (most of the time).

Tees are great for not having to switch hoses that often, but start to add a lot of cost really quickly compared to just quickly moving a hose from here to there. Just something to think about before you dive headfirst into a spendy project.

Most people put a valve off the pump to be able to restrict flow. I chose not to as I put valves at each opening in the kettles and coming off my chiller so I can always restrict it right where I'm working. Best to restrict your chiller on the outflow so it stays full all the way through.

I do like the ear clamps, but have always had extremely good, reliable connections using screw clamps.

Make sure to put quick connects on the hop rocket so your regular brewery hoses will connect to it.

Post some pics! Sounds like a fun project!

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Old 01-09-2013, 12:48 PM   #3
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Just another note: I used standard worm clamps to attach all my hose to camlocks. Every brew session where I forget to wear gloves, I find that my hands are all cut up to hell the next day.

Those clamps are sharp and stay sharp for ever it seems. I've considered wrapping them in tape each time I brew, but that's just one more thing to get dirty.

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Old 01-09-2013, 03:06 PM   #4
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I'm using camlock type "D" connectors on all my hoses with 5/8" hose barbs. No clamps needed.

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Old 01-09-2013, 04:03 PM   #5
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I'm having a hard time visualizing how the type D camlocks connect to the tubing. Perhaps you can explain it to me?

I get the other types as they have hose barbs built in. Makes sense. But I don't see that on the Type D.

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Old 01-09-2013, 04:21 PM   #6
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The Type D is a female 1/2" NPT thread so you would need to screw in a 1/2" NPT male threaded hose barb.

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Old 01-09-2013, 05:37 PM   #7
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I like using bobby's trick with the cam lock fittings. Thread the hose over an elbow.

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Old 01-09-2013, 06:24 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BargainFittings View Post
The Type D is a female 1/2" NPT thread so you would need to screw in a 1/2" NPT male threaded hose barb.

Is there an advantage/disadvantage of one type of camlock over another?
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Old 01-09-2013, 06:40 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by archer75 View Post
Is there an advantage/disadvantage of one type of camlock over another?
Type C has the most flow restriction, type D is the most expensive because it's 2 piece and type B is the cheapest but involves heating the hose end, stretching it over the threads and then possibly using a worm clamp to hold if you're worried about it.
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Old 01-09-2013, 08:31 PM   #10
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Does a type A mate with a type d?

Is the preferred method to attach the type D cam locks to the tubes or can you use those on the pumps/chiller/hop rocket? Or does it matter?

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