Bobby, Thanks for all the great info! I have kind of a strange request. Can I get a picture of your NG outlet out of your wall into that red hose? I moved into a new home that has NG and I have a extra port in the basement im thinking about having plumbed out to my garage through the wall. Just curious what I need on the other side in order to connect a hose to a setup like you have
It's a sad, non-code hook up. On the 1/2" black pipe I have a gas rated ball valve, then a 1/2" male NPT to female garden hose fitting. My 1/2" goodyear utility hose has a male GH to hose barb fitting on both ends. The brew stand also has a female GH fitting on it. I used garden hose threads as a semi quick disconnect system that I'm relatively sure will not leak, won't restrict flow, and won't cost anywhere near what the gas rated hose sets cost. A 25' x 1/2" set goes for like $160 and the QD is a bottleneck.
Do I have to mention that I don't endorse garden hose fittings for nat gas? The valve on the hard line is only opened during brew sessions and closed after so none the out of code crap has any gas pressure otherwise.
Bobby,
i've seen your vids and read this thread. it looks like you still use this setup. besides altering it to a 2-tier system like in post 124, or removing that center tube to support your burners, is there anything else that you might change? i'll be building my rig in spring and am collecting ideas. tks.
why would you prefer square tubing instead of bed frames (basically angle iron)?
btw, great looking rig, hence my desire to reproduce it!
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*Bayou Brewhouse, established 2009*
Last edited by nbspindel; 01-11-2010 at 05:25 AM.
Reason: new question
The reason I don't like angle stock is because you can't grind the welds on inside corners. All the corners are "outside" on square tube. This is one of those details you only think of when you go to grind the first one. Oops.
Hmm, anything different. If you don't need the center post support in the middle/front, skip it. When I first conceived the design, I was sure single tier was for me but after brewing 20 batches on it, I'm seriously thinking a 2-tier would have been the better way to go. Pumping out of an MLT directly is sort of a pain in the ass. I know many people have no problems with it but it stinks when the tun runs dry and you have to reprime the pump. The answer is to stop the pump before it happens, but you can't see inside to know when it's about to happen. The other shortcoming is the need for a second pump if you want to play with fly sparging. This $150 expense can be sidestepped with a little gravity.
If I were building one right now, it would be ---___--- with the HLT, BK, MLT. The center BK position would be as low as you could get it with still having enough room for the burner (assuming gas, not electric). The other two tiers would just be high enough so that the MLT can drain to the BK. It still shouldn't be too high to dough in easily without a ladder. Now you can gravity drain the MLT and pump the sparge water. You can batch or fly anytime you want. You'd further use the pump to push the post boil wort to the fermenter (and through the chiller if you have a cfc/plate).
BTW, the reason the HLT stays separated from the MLT in position is so that I can blast the flame under the HLT while I still have heat-sensitive insulation wrapped around the mashtun.
I know the options are limitless and everyone has an opinion. I'll probably change my mind in a month.
Sorry to open up an old thread but Bobby, I am/was on a 3 tier system but was a bit of a pain getting on a stool to get to the HLT and lifting mash tuns and brew kettles, so I got a pump. I was trying to think of the best way to use it to ease my brew day back and came across this and was convinced this might be the way to go. I'm wondering if you changed your mind about the pumping from MLT to BK? I have some wire shelves to use and am reading tons on here to see what the best configuration might be. Initially, I was thinking of just using the pump to push water to my MLT and have the MLT on the same level as my BK, then saw a two tier HLT gravity to MLT then pump to BK. If you could do it all over again and have a HLT keggle, 10 gallon cooler MT, and BK keggle and just one pump, how would you configure it? I have two burners, one doesn't fit great on my wire shelving but can be rigged. Thanks.
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"The mouth of a perfectly happy man is filled with beer." - Egyptian Proverb
Recently picked up the parts to get started on my single tier. Have 3 kegs drilled for 1/2 inch SS full couplers. The welder said that SS cannot be welded to Aluminum?? Did any of you run into this? If I am not mistaken everyone seems to have SS welded into their kegs. I was told an alternative is to find aluminum couplers or weld in a piece and tap it to the right threads.
Recently picked up the parts to get started on my single tier. Have 3 kegs drilled for 1/2 inch SS full couplers. The welder said that SS cannot be welded to Aluminum?? Did any of you run into this? If I am not mistaken everyone seems to have SS welded into their kegs. I was told an alternative is to find aluminum couplers or weld in a piece and tap it to the right threads.
What do you think?
Sanke kegs are stainless steel. If your welder couldn't tell that... Run!
Sorry for the resurrection of the thread. I've gotten several requests for dimensions on the brew stand and finally exported the graphic from sketchup.
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