Crankandstein mill

alemonkey · 01-23-2007, 03:35 AM

SWMBO got me a 3 roller Crankandstein for Christmas this year. I built a base and hopper for it but hadn't tried it out until tonight.....Holy Crap, is this thing impressive!

The only problem I found is that my drill doesn't quite have the the cajones needed to run the mill. I had to widen the gap somewhat from the factory setting in order to get it to turn. Eventually I plan on adding a dedicated motor to it.

The crush is fantastic - very consistent, with not too much flour. I had to crush a little too fast because my drill wouldn't turn it at slower speeds. I'm sure if I went a little slower it would pretty much eliminate the flour.

What's really impressive is how it can crush the grain so fine but still leave the husks relatively intact. I should be able to get really good efficiency without worrying about a stuck sparge.

The only other mill (other than my old Corona) that I've ever used is a JSP. It's a fine mill, but IMHO there is no comparison to the Crankandstein. It would be interesting to see how the 2 roller compares to the triple, but I think what I have is awesome.

**Brewer3401** · 01-24-2007, 03:40 AM

I got the 3 roller with detents a couple of years ago. I was lucky enough to find a 3/8 hp gear motor turning at 90 rpm. Have a lovejoy connection between the two shafts.
I sent different crush samples to a professional brewer, and his comments were "basically, the mill does a kick ass job". The best crush was with the detent on the second from largest setting (maris otter malt).
I got as my once a year large purchase and am very happy with it. Being somewhat of a DIY, if I could get my hands on some solid 6" steel bar, I have a friend who has a lathe............
Maybe just stick with what I have unless I open a brewpub or micro.

**RichBrewer** · 01-24-2007, 03:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by alemonkey

The crush is fantastic - very consistent, with not too much flour. I had to crush a little too fast because my drill wouldn't turn it at slower speeds. I'm sure if I went a little slower it would pretty much eliminate the flour.

I am under the impression that you want some flour in your grist. The husks need to remain intact but if you can get a bit of flour doesn't it increase the mash efficiency?

**Brewer3401** · 01-24-2007, 03:51 AM

Other part of the pro brewer's quote: "with very little flour". I think if you could get all grits and no flour, it would be a perfect grind. I think only the 6 roller BMC mills do that, but there will still be a little flour.
I've read about a mash filter, where you remove all of the husks (no astringency?) and filter the flour and grits. A little beyone homebrew costs...........but maybe not ?

**Yuri_Rage** · 01-24-2007, 04:02 AM

Actually, large brewers like BMC use a much finer crush (almost all flour) with a much more sophisticated sparge system, resulting in very high efficency. The average homebrewer or microbrewer doesn't have the capability to mash that way, so a coarser crush with intact hulls is required to keep the sparge from sticking. A little flour is good, because it does increase mash efficiency, but a lot of flour will likely result in a stuck sparge. Filtering the husks out of your mash is not desirable unless you plan on using a lot of rice hulls as your filter bed - even then, the crush required will likely result in a lot of flour, and the sparge will be difficult.

**Bernie Brewer** · 01-24-2007, 10:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by alemonkey

The only problem I found is that my drill doesn't quite have the the cajones needed to run the mill. I had to widen the gap somewhat from the factory setting in order to get it to turn. Eventually I plan on adding a dedicated motor to it.

Get a DeWalt........

rdwj · 01-24-2007, 10:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bernie Brewer

Get a DeWalt........

...or the cheaperst plug in one you can find. They typically have much more power than an average battery powered model.

**Reverend JC** · 01-24-2007, 10:17 PM

Ale-

come on over for some bevys and we can inspect the crush of a two roller crankandstein mill. I just got it for christmas and i use a 19.5 volt craftsman cordless. It works like a charm, but my sisters boyfriend have some gears, pulleys and belts from a robot he built when he was in school for mech engineering and he is going to give those to me so i do not have to use the drill.

Brewiz · 01-25-2007, 10:47 AM

Here's what you need to motorize your mill all from Grainger:

V Belt, Nominal Outside Length 44 Inches, Top Width 3/8 Inch, Belt 3L, 7/32 Inch Thick, Smooth DAYTON
3L440-G

Die Cast One Groove Sheave, OD 1 1/2 Inches, 3L Belt Pitch Diameter 1.05 Inches, 4L or A Belt Pitch Diameter 1.35 Inches, 1/2 Inch Bore Size CONGRESS
CA150 1-1/2A X 1/2

Die Cast One Groove Sheave, OD 10 Inches, 3L Belt Pitch Diameter 9.55 Inches, 4L or A Belt Pitch Diameter 9.85 Inches, 1/2 Inch Bore Size CONGRESS
CA1000 10A X 1/2

Belt Drive Motor, Split-Phase, Open Dripproof, 1/3 HP, 1725 RPM, Number of Speeds 1, 115 Volts, 6.6 Full Load Amps, 48Y NEMA Frame, Service Factor 1.35 DAYTON
6K778G
Adapter Bushing, 3/8 Inch ID x 1/2 Inch OD, 1 1/8 Inches Length, For Adapting 3/8 to 1/2 Inch Diameter Shaft DAYTON
6X452

This is what I used to make mine:

**Reverend JC** · 01-25-2007, 03:06 PM

Brewiz, god damn that looks sexy!!!!!

I half assed a stand and hopper for mine so i could use it right away, can you post the dimensions of that thing please!

Nice work.