I would screw the thing together as tight as you can and then take a measurement of the gap. If it's bigger than the wall of your cooler, it may not work. Also look at the bottom of the cooler where you plan on drilling. Sometimes because of the angle it will be thicker so it may work. Calipers come in real handy for these kinds of things.
__________________ Drinking on the keg: BPA, Brown Ale, Dry Mead, Wee Heavy aged on Oak, CAP Drinking in the Bottle: Conditioning: Fermenting: Planning:
They should be more specific on the cooler wall thickness range that is accomodated. Yes, you can use washers to make up the thickness or change out the nipple.
Lowes sells them over by the fittings/faucet repair kits. I used #70 or something like that. They don't coincide at all with the ASTM numbering scheme, but you can take them out of the package and try it on the probe. I used something like 5 Orings in a stack to get a nice seal.
Lowes sells them over by the fittings/faucet repair kits. I used #70 or something like that. They don't coincide at all with the ASTM numbering scheme, but you can take them out of the package and try it on the probe. I used something like 5 Orings in a stack to get a nice seal.
Thanks Bobby...i may try to get a nipple there to.
__________________
Its not the beer that gets ya!.
Primary 1: air
Primary 2: Apfelwine #1- 6 gal (9-10)
Primary 3: Hodgepodge Wine (13)
Secondary: Innsmouth Pale Ale (BB IPA)(12)
Secondary 2: Benischewitz (w1) (home grown concord wine)
Kegged/Bottled: Leaky Tap Braggot (8) Kegged/ Miskatonic Chronic (BB Holiday Ale)(11) Bottled/Providence Stout (7) Bottled/Honey Brown Ale (6) Bottled
It looks like our coolers are a bit thicker! You can make it work, you would just need a handful of washers - about once inch's worth, to be precise. Alternatively, our kettle bulkhead might work for you. The kettle bulkhead is designed for less than 1/2".
Cooler weldless fitting.
Linear Mode
