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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Equipment/Sanitation > Charlie Talley (Five-Star Chemicals) Notes from Brewcasts

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Old 01-18-2011, 02:48 PM   #41
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I have never had an issue with Star-San and my Therminator. I do worry though, so I only use the Star-San in the chiller when it is hooked to the cleaning loop on my brewery (actually it is just hooked up to my lautering grant and pump combo and recirculates there). Otherwise, I stick that bad boy in my king-size pressure canner and fire it up after cleaning it. I have quit using Star-San on my brewing equipment (no need to sanitize that anyways), so the chiller only gets PBW or Oxy followed by a slight vinegar water rinse. Then nothing but tap water before everything is left to dry.

As for the AC coils... I would think it would be fine if you rinsed off before it set all day. Couple hours and a rinse should be fine once a year. The rest of the time I would just use a pressure hose and be careful not to bend the fins with the spray.

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Old 11-30-2011, 06:12 PM   #42
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Does anyone know of the fate of DDBSA when its diluted by starsan. The Sulfate is probably used by the yeast, but there is still that whole complex of a benzene ring with a dodecane tail. Both of those are pretty toxic to people, so anyone knows what happens to them?

EDIT: NM found an answer in another thread.

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Old 04-25-2012, 11:14 AM   #43
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My tap water causes Star San to go very cloudy immediately - the podcast infers that this might reduce the product's effectiveness (he asks a caller how long it takes to turn cloudy due to ions in his local water supply), but doesn't say how severe this issue is.

Should I be using distilled water?
Is a cloudy diluted Star San still doing the do?

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Old 04-25-2012, 09:38 PM   #44
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Buy some RO water and use that. You don't want to use distilled because it can also make the product work differently IIRC. RO has a minute enough volume of minerals to buffer the water so you get what the product says you get. I'd buy a 5 gallon water bottle and just go refill it when needed. You don't need much star-san since it foams, and you can always use that until it is used up.

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Old 05-02-2012, 01:04 AM   #45
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Question about Star San: a buddy of mine swears it has to be at least 120F or it will not properly sanitize. I tend to keep mine around for a few weeks before I dump it, going from carboy to keg to bucket and back again. Should I be heating it up to get it to work properly or is that just not necessary?

Thanks!

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Old 05-02-2012, 06:09 PM   #46
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Five Star's Tech Sheet on Star San says nothing about heating... I think it would be there if it were important.

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Old 05-02-2012, 06:49 PM   #47
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Ask him to show you where on the packaging it says that

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Old 05-03-2012, 09:24 AM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rales View Post
Five Star's Tech Sheet on Star San says nothing about heating... I think it would be there if it were important.
Thanks for checking that. I never saw anything on the bottle but he was pretty adamant that he had read it "somewhere" so I will let him know that it works without heating. He was in food service in college and I think he was taught then to heat all sanitizers and that just has stuck in his brain...
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Old 05-03-2012, 05:02 PM   #49
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It doesn't need to be heated up. He may be thinking of PBW or another cleaner, but not a sanitizer like Star-San.

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Old 09-08-2012, 11:45 PM   #50
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Default This thread should be required reading for all

if we want to know quite a lot about cleaning and sanitizing. Great information here which is no doubt why it is stickified.

The other day I listened to a podcast with Charlie Talley (Five-Star Chemicals, the maker of StarSan) talking about cleaning and sanitizing. (Thank you HBT and beer historian Revvy for posting that episode)

There is a lot of information in the talk, most of it I'd picked up through reading but one thing Charlie said gave me an idea.

StarSan is a cold blooded very effective killer of molds, spores, and bacteria when the pH is 3.5 or below. But above that it becomes a nutrient for yeast.

So what if a diluted solution of StarSan with a pH higher than 3.5 was used in the water of a yeast starter? I add nutrients when I make a starter and they are not exactly pricey but cost more than a few liters of diluted StarSan.

Any merit in trying this out or is the gain minimal compared to inexpensive powdered nutrients readily available?

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