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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Equipment/Sanitation > Cereal Killer mill roller question
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Old 01-07-2012, 10:43 PM   #1
Leeb
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Default Cereal Killer mill roller question

LHBS mill (which I've always used until now) has both rollers rotating to crush the grain. Got a new Cereal Killer for Xmas and indications on the web say that to adjust the width you loosen and tighten screws attached to one of the rollers. This appears to fix one roller, only allowing the other to rotate to pull the grain through as it crushes.

Anyone have a Cereal Killer, and is this really the way it works?

Any caveats, or suggestions on width of the crush, etc.?

Thanks!

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Old 01-07-2012, 10:51 PM   #2
day_trippr
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Yes, that's the way that mill - and nearly all roller mills - work. One roller is cranked, the other is "passively" spun by virtue of the grain passing between the two.

As for the gap, I use the stock .039 gap on my virtually identical Barley Crusher for nearly everything except wheat. A set of feeler gauges makes setting the gap fairly easy...

Cheers!

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Old 01-07-2012, 10:57 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by day_trippr View Post
Yes, that's the way that mill - and nearly all roller mills - work. One roller is cranked, the other is "passively" spun by virtue of the grain passing between the two.

As for the gap, I use the stock .039 gap on my virtually identical Barley Crusher for nearly everything except wheat. A set of feeler gauges makes setting the gap fairly easy...

Cheers!
So I'm concerned then that tightening the screws on the passive roller fixes not only the crush width but the rotation (not allowing it to rotate passively).

Am I going to need to take it apart and bike lube it or something?
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Old 01-07-2012, 11:09 PM   #4
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Don't know about the CK, but the BC uses oil impregnated bronze bushings for the roller bearings. I've never oiled the bearings, but I suppose an occasional drop or two of cutting board oil wouldn't hurt on either mill.

I wouldn't get too concerned about the whole passive roller thing. There are a heck of a lot of mills out there all depending on the same design...

Cheers!

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Old 01-07-2012, 11:25 PM   #5
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Shouldn't have to lube if it is new. Keep in mind that gap setting from mill model to mill model is different. It depends on size of knurls on roller, speed that you drive the rollers, etc. So what might be good for the BC may not cut it with the one you got. If your rollers are so close that the passive roller turns without grain being in the mill, you have a problem so back it off.

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Old 01-08-2012, 12:28 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leeb View Post
So I'm concerned then that tightening the screws on the passive roller fixes not only the crush width but the rotation (not allowing it to rotate passively).

Am I going to need to take it apart and bike lube it or something?
Tightening up the screws should just fix the position of the bushings or the bushing carrier, still allowing the roller to turn. tighten them up and give the roller a hand spin and see.
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