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-   -   Cereal Killer mill roller question (http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/cereal-killer-mill-roller-question-292682/)

Leeb 01-07-2012 09:43 PM

Cereal Killer mill roller question
 
LHBS mill (which I've always used until now) has both rollers rotating to crush the grain. Got a new Cereal Killer for Xmas and indications on the web say that to adjust the width you loosen and tighten screws attached to one of the rollers. This appears to fix one roller, only allowing the other to rotate to pull the grain through as it crushes.

Anyone have a Cereal Killer, and is this really the way it works?

Any caveats, or suggestions on width of the crush, etc.?

Thanks!

day_trippr 01-07-2012 09:51 PM

Yes, that's the way that mill - and nearly all roller mills - work. One roller is cranked, the other is "passively" spun by virtue of the grain passing between the two.

As for the gap, I use the stock .039 gap on my virtually identical Barley Crusher for nearly everything except wheat. A set of feeler gauges makes setting the gap fairly easy...

Cheers!

Leeb 01-07-2012 09:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by day_trippr (Post 3638733)
Yes, that's the way that mill - and nearly all roller mills - work. One roller is cranked, the other is "passively" spun by virtue of the grain passing between the two.

As for the gap, I use the stock .039 gap on my virtually identical Barley Crusher for nearly everything except wheat. A set of feeler gauges makes setting the gap fairly easy...

Cheers!

So I'm concerned then that tightening the screws on the passive roller fixes not only the crush width but the rotation (not allowing it to rotate passively).

Am I going to need to take it apart and bike lube it or something?

day_trippr 01-07-2012 10:09 PM

Don't know about the CK, but the BC uses oil impregnated bronze bushings for the roller bearings. I've never oiled the bearings, but I suppose an occasional drop or two of cutting board oil wouldn't hurt on either mill.

I wouldn't get too concerned about the whole passive roller thing. There are a heck of a lot of mills out there all depending on the same design...

Cheers!

samc 01-07-2012 10:25 PM

Shouldn't have to lube if it is new. Keep in mind that gap setting from mill model to mill model is different. It depends on size of knurls on roller, speed that you drive the rollers, etc. So what might be good for the BC may not cut it with the one you got. If your rollers are so close that the passive roller turns without grain being in the mill, you have a problem so back it off.

gingerdawg 01-07-2012 11:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Leeb (Post 3638747)
So I'm concerned then that tightening the screws on the passive roller fixes not only the crush width but the rotation (not allowing it to rotate passively).

Am I going to need to take it apart and bike lube it or something?

Tightening up the screws should just fix the position of the bushings or the bushing carrier, still allowing the roller to turn. tighten them up and give the roller a hand spin and see.


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