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Old 01-05-2012, 12:20 AM   #71
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I also noticed that the rollers were not absolutely true. Not sure if this is a problem for someone like me because the difference is minimal from what I can tell. I did try a test and took 25 grains and ran it though. All 25 got the bugger squished out of them. Then I tried a hundred grains. There might have been one grain that was not squished completely of that bunch. I was using "special-B" which seems very brittle so I will try it again using regular two row. Unless I start seeing a lot of whole grains coming through the mill I am happy. If I were trying to eek out every little bit of efficiency it might be a bigger issue. Next time I am in the store I will ask about this and see what can be done if anything. I do know that some have bought this mill for $79 and I would say it was a great value for the money. I am thinking along the same lines as mentioned earlier that the holes were bored in the rollers while in a jig or chuck. Anyway I am completely happy with mine and it cost me $99. But if it can be improved I am all for that as well.

Happy Brew Year!!!!
Mike

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Old 01-05-2012, 09:03 PM   #72
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the drive roller on ceareal killer is also out of round.

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Old 01-06-2012, 10:50 PM   #73
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So I got a Cereal Killer for Christmas and used it for the first time today. Yes, my rollers seem to be a little off center (you can definitely see the wobble when you put a drill on it) but I decided to go ahead and give it a shot before contacting AIH. I set the gap to 0.035" and measured at both ends of the roller to try and get an even gap. The gap doesn't look too bad but you can see that it gets larger and smaller as the rollers turn.

Everything started off pretty fine but then I noticed that the mill got very easy to turn. Upon further inspection, I found out that the passive roller was stuck and the active roller was just spinning grinding the grain as opposed to crushing it. I cleared out the hopper and rollers and found that it was grain getting stuck at the ends of the passive rollers that was causing the issue. I was able to keep a good crush going by only feeding a cupful of grain in at a time directly above the roller gap. This allowed the passive roller to turn with the active roller when grain was between them. If there was too little grain between them, the passive roller wouldn't "bite" and spin with the active roller. I plan on modifying the hopper so that it directs grain directly to the roller gap, blocking the ends of the passive roller, and see how that works out.

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Old 01-07-2012, 03:06 AM   #74
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Usually I just fill the hopper to the brim and start grinding. The passive roller on mine does stick once in a while when a grain gets stuck on the side of the roller. You do not need to empty it. All I do is (turn of the drill of course) and reach underneath the mill on the output side. Then spin the passive roller with your finger. It really takes barely any effort and maybe one full spin forward and/or backward. Literally takes me less then 15 seconds from the time it happens to the time it is back up and running. I do not plan on modifying my hopper as this occasional hick-up barely registers on my frustration meter.

BTW - Stopped by Adventures in Homebrewing today. Jason was busy at his other store in Ann Arbor but there were several friendlies that took the time to discuss the roller business with me. I let them know what I thought the issues with the rollers were. They appreciated the feed back and will need to investigate. Will post any beneficial feedback that I might get.

This is my opinion not theirs... It may come down to a matter of money. They are trying to provide a decent product for a very reasonable price. This requires cost effective manufacturing. You can't expect to pay for a Pinto and have a Cadillac delivered. They are probably lucky to break even on this item. But a good business is willing to do that to keep customers coming back to stock their brewing shelves with other things. While this mill is not the best in the industry it sure is a solid piece of equipment for a regular Joe like me.

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Old 01-07-2012, 03:51 AM   #75
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From the start, my passive roller would not turn easily by hand even without grain in it. Never thought anything about it seeing as how I'd never used a mill before. While I had my boil going tonight, I decided to look a little closer at the mill and see what might be going on.

I took the hopper off to get a better look and cleared out the stuck grain from one end of the passive roller. I noticed that the passive roller was really offset to one side, so I decided to take that whole roller out. I cleared all off the grain/powder out and put the roller back in. This time I made sure that the passive roller was evenly spaced between the two walls that hold it.

I think that this may be the key for that passive roller because it is no longer offset to one side. Before this fix it was too tight to one side causing it to turn very difficulty while the other side had a gap so large that full grain kernels could slip right in. The roller turns very easy by hand now. I don't think I'll mess with the hopper like I mentioned before and just give the mill another shot with passive roller centered.

When the passive roller was turning, the cereal killer worked great. Hopefully, making sure that passive roller is properly centered will keep it rolling!

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Old 01-18-2012, 04:55 AM   #76
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Has anyone had good experiences with this mill? It's currently on sale for $89, and if I stand a chance of getting a good one I might get it.

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Old 01-18-2012, 06:30 AM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caphector
Has anyone had good experiences with this mill? It's currently on sale for $89, and if I stand a chance of getting a good one I might get it.
Sure, se people have reported no problems, but I'm not certain they went into the same detail. You can always buy and return it of it doesn't work out. I think they have some work to make these things consistently. I'm on the fence about getting a replacement, but right now I'm leaning toward another mill. I just don't want to deal with another potentially finicky mill. Even if the gap is set correctly, are there other manufacturing defects? Who knows. It's a brand new product.
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Old 01-18-2012, 10:22 AM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caphector
Has anyone had good experiences with this mill? It's currently on sale for $89, and if I stand a chance of getting a good one I might get it.
I think it will work great after my adjustments. Don't trust the "factory defaults" of the mill. Take the time to check out the moving parts and set the gap correctly.

I think my issue was with the passive roller being stuck to one side. If you can't spin the rollers freely by hand with no grains, make sure the rollers are centered in the mill. When I had both rollers turning, this mill did a great job.

The off-centered or wobbly roller didn't have a big impact on my brew. In fact, I saw a 7% increase in efficiency compared to getting my grains crushed at my LHBS. 70% to 77%.
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Old 01-21-2012, 02:55 PM   #79
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I cancelled my order a long time ago when the negative comments started rolling in. I ended up getting a crankenstein 2A for $99. I don't see any of these issues with the crankenstein. No wobble, even gap and set up perfectly to work great right out of the box. Don't have to worry about centering the rollers or the passive roller not spinning. Got great crush with wheat (chocolate) and 2-row with only one gap setting. I'm sure the monster mill and the maltmill are even better but I think what I have is good enough for the price.

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Old 02-16-2012, 02:52 PM   #80
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I bought this as my first mill for the $89 shipped price. I have not used it yet, but the passive roller was canted so I took it all apart and made some adjustments. Now it looks to work great.

Also they have started adding a rubber o-ring to the roller that will contact the passive roller and keep it moving.

I think I'll be happy with it after tweaking the rollers a little.

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