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Old 10-17-2012, 12:18 AM   #1
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Default Can't stop a leak on ball valve install

I have a 9 gallon Bayou classic thin (very thin) stainless pot that I've been using for my boil pot for extract brewing. I am trying to make the jump to all grain and bought a stainless ball valve to install. Used a #4, 7/8 step bit to drill a hole and removed the burrs with a dremel.

For the life of me I can't get the ball valve installed without a leak. I have the orange O ring it came with on the inside, then the washer, then the female to female coupler. On the outside it's washer the ball valve fitting. Pretty sure I have it installed right but no matter how hard I tighten it I still have leaks. It does seem like the hole is a little big (not sure how as I used the 7/8 step bit and went all the way through, but the O ring more than covers it. Driving me crazy, any ideas of common causes and fixes? Maybe I should add another O ring to the outside as well?

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Old 10-17-2012, 12:20 AM   #2
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The one I bought looks just like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Homebrewing-...item20cc6ae5db

and yes I've tried replacing the teflon tape.

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Old 10-17-2012, 02:32 AM   #3
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Assuming you did use enough tape to keep fluids from running down the threads,
I wonder if the nipple is bottoming out too soon. Once you have everything as tight as you can get it, does the whole valve/o-ring/coupler assembly resist twisting? Ie, do you think you're getting that o-ring "squished" enough to seal?

You might try to find an additional washer, and either put that one on the outside of the kettle, or behind the original washer. It may let you get the assembly tighter...

Cheers!

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Old 10-17-2012, 02:41 AM   #4
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i had a valve kit like yours and it leaked until i did 2 things .. cover the thread channels well in teflon tape, and "order" a locknut with a groove in it .. i also got an assortment of gaskets including silicone flat washers as the large rounded orings seem to shift too much .. below is a link to a locknut like what im talking about

good luck!

http://www.bargainfittings.com/index...&product_id=56

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Old 10-17-2012, 02:48 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by day_trippr
Assuming you did use enough tape to keep fluids from running down the threads,
I wonder if the nipple is bottoming out too soon. Once you have everything as tight as you can get it, does the whole valve/o-ring/coupler assembly resist twisting? Ie, do you think you're getting that o-ring "squished" enough to seal?

You might try to find an additional washer, and either put that one on the outside of the kettle, or behind the original washer. It may let you get the assembly tighter...

Cheers!
I covered the threads with Teflon tape, wrapped it twice. I've always read not to put too much Teflon tape on, less is better. How many wraps are you supposed to do?

I did have the problem with it bottoming out so I added another washer to the outside. It was one I already had and I drilled it out with my step bit. So pretty sure that's not the issue.

I'm definitely getting it squished tight but at a point the whole thing does move. But it's very tight.

I'm afraid the hole is a little too big and/or since the walls are so thin they did bend a little when I drilled. I think next I will try another o ring this one on the outside and if that doesn't work then one of the Teflon disks that are supposed to work for bigger holes.
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Old 10-17-2012, 02:57 AM   #6
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If you think the hole might be a bit "twisted", you could remove the o-ring and crank the remaining bits together, and if the nipple doesn't bottom out the hole should "flatten".

That said, I've read of folks having success cutting their own "custom" gaskets from silicone sheet and curing problematic bulkhead installations.

Also, the grooved nut suggested earlier might help. I have one of those on my MLT and it keeps the o-ring from slipping/squishing out of round. But that might not help if your hole is too large or ovaled...

Cheers!

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Old 10-17-2012, 03:03 AM   #7
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Go to a plumbing supply and get a couple of copper washers that should solve your problem

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Old 10-17-2012, 03:17 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pigsaarz
Go to a plumbing supply and get a couple of copper washers that should solve your problem
Copper washers? Would I be using those to shim it or to create a seal? I don't see how copper against stainless steel would create a seal?
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Old 10-17-2012, 03:24 AM   #9
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It's entirely possible you could have tightened them too much. Take it apart and reinstall the bulkhead, but only hand tighten it, and then give it an extra quarter turn or so.

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Old 10-17-2012, 03:24 AM   #10
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I had the same problem with a similar weldless kit that I used and it leaked until I tried the silicon o-ring on the outside. Only problem I have now is if I over tighten the ball valve I can break the o-ring. I think adding a locknut would solve that problem though

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