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Old 06-20-2014, 12:24 PM   #11
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Dewalt has a set of self pilot drill bits, if you cant get a hole started maybe pick up a set of those, I have a set and are pretty sweet. But like I said above that is what I used on my concord and a few keggles and it hard and slow but it goes.

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Old 06-20-2014, 12:28 PM   #12
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Cut a 2 x 4 block of wood to fit inside all the way across. When drilling SS, especially the thinner heat tempered ones for cooking pots, the metal will flex. I have had a 16" diameter bk I wanted to modify. Had same problems. Cut a 16" block of wood, wedged it down in there and gave it another shot. Couple drops of cutting oil and poof! Sank right through it like warm butter.

Then I spent about 40 bucks and bought a 1/2" conduit knock out punch. I get perfectly clean holes, sized perfectly for running a 1/2" nipple to attach any accessory my never resting mind can think of.

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Old 06-20-2014, 12:42 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evanmars View Post
Just stating the obvious, but is your drill running in the correct direction?
My first thought too. Who hasn't been there? Can't say I've been there for this amount of time before noticing, but still been there
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Old 06-20-2014, 12:52 PM   #14
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I drilled mine out few months ago, I used a clamp to shoot water on the inside of the kettle to keep it cool, little dab of cutting fluid and a sloow turning drill bit.

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Old 06-20-2014, 06:59 PM   #15
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haha YES it's going in the right direction!

I am using cutting oil as well. The pot is 18/10 and it doesn't bend much when I lean into it. The one time I pushed with all my might the bit snapped in half.

I'm using the same bump and stop that I did with my keg and that was easy peasy. That pilot hole literally took 10-15 seconds. On both holes I tried with this pot, I got some filings to allow a tiny crater, then no metal shavings afterwards.

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Old 06-20-2014, 07:33 PM   #16
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Slow speed, heavy feed.
Cutting oil, not any WD-40 or the like.

Back it up the way Takuie did, and it should fall through.

All those bit(s) that you spun in the same spot for a while?
Trash them.
Start fresh, and remember, "Slow speed, heavy feed", as you wish to see the swarf, ( a "curly cue"), coming off of the hole.

You need to control the speed!

Your Cobalt bit broke because you were not applying pressure perpendicular to the surface.

They are brittle bits!

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Old 06-21-2014, 01:08 AM   #17
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After all that time getting nowhere you can be certain that the spot you've barely dinged has been hardened in a major way. I would start with a fresh boron bit but move the point of attack just enough to avoid the "ding" while remaining close enough that the eventual hole diameter will take out said "ding"...

Cheers!

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Old 06-21-2014, 01:27 AM   #18
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A buddy ran into a similar problem. The solution was moving to a larger bit to mill down the end of your small crater, and then moving back to the smaller bit to push through the thin metal at that point. Slow speed and direct-down pressure is the key but once hardened it's just a matter of pushing through so you can get to opening up the hole.

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Old 06-21-2014, 05:11 PM   #19
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So I went to a cutting store and got some high quality Nacchi cobalt bits. Powder coated or something special like that. After trying on a THIRD spot, that one snapped after leaning in too hard. I was leaning so hard because nothing was shaving off again after the first indentation. So I found a local welder who quickly used his TIG and arced some 3/8 holes in like 20 seconds and $10 later, I had two holes. Saved me lots of frustration and cussing.
I used the step bits to widen them as I normally do then ground away the slag with my dremel and grinder. the top hole for the eye bolt was a piece of cake! So the bottom of the pot must have been case hardened from the factory. And I've read about inconsistencies with this brand, but I guess I got a really good one (which in my case was bad).
At the end of the long night, everything's in there. I learned two new lessons though:
1) don't put your eye bolt that high (my lid hits the inside nut, making it not sit flush so I'm going to have to do something about that.
2) my ball valve's crooked despite maximal tightness. I don't care that much because it's leak free!
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