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02-08-2012, 03:45 PM
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#1
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Location: Dallas, Tx
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Camlock Question
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It appears that most people use SS camlocks and the typical setup involves Male F camlocks on valves/pumps/kettles and the Female C camlock on hoses.
Would there be any issues (leaky seals or the likes) with reversing the setup and using the Male E camlocks on hoses and Female B camlocks on valves/pumps etc.?
It seems like it would make no difference, but since most people use the F/C setup im curious to get your thoughts before spending $100 on fittings.
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02-08-2012, 04:06 PM
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#2
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: O'Fallon, MO
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Generally, you're going to have more fittings on equipment than on hoses so using the more expensive fittings on the hoses to save money makes some sense. The male fittings are also easier to sanitize on a hose than on a piece of equipment. Also the male fittings contain the o-ring/gasket. I'm not sure that I want that gasket exposed to the heat of the kettle while boiling.
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02-08-2012, 04:29 PM
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#3
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Location: Fleetwood, PA
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I set my system up with the males on the hoses and females on the equipment. Everything works fine. Whether its easier or not this way I don't know cause I never had it set up the opposite way. It would have been cheaper for me, as mentioned above, to put all the females on the hoses. I just opted not to.
Tom
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Abandoned Logic Brewing
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02-08-2012, 04:37 PM
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#4
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Location: St.Charles, MO
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On my system I think it would be a PITA to close those female camlocks if they were attached to the kettle/hlt/mashtun, and really hot.
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02-08-2012, 04:42 PM
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#5
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Vendor
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If you put males on the hoses and drop them, you can mar the face.
Females on valves can heat up as was mentioned.
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02-08-2012, 04:46 PM
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#6
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Location: Fleetwood, PA
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I have an electric system and can't literally hold the female ends (on the kettles) during the boil and not burn myself. I'm sure it may be different with a flame though.
Tom
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Abandoned Logic Brewing
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02-08-2012, 04:54 PM
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#7
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Location: Dallas, Tx
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All very good and logical responses, thank you!!!!! I will now join the masses and go the F/C route.
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02-08-2012, 07:42 PM
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#8
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Vendor and Brewer
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One caveat.. I think the type C sucks. Go with B and a 5/8" barb or just put the silicone tubing over the threads.
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BrewHardware.com
Sightglass, Refractometer, Ball Valve, Weldless bulkhead, Thermometer, Decals, Stainless Steel Fittings, Compression Fittings, Camlock Quick Disconnects, Scale, RIMS tube, Plate Chiller, Chugger Pump, Super Clear Silicone Tubing, and more!
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02-08-2012, 09:04 PM
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#9
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Location: Dallas, Tx
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by Bobby_M
One caveat.. I think the type C sucks. Go with B and a 5/8" barb or just put the silicone tubing over the threads.
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Does this work with 1/2" ID silicone tubing? Would you even need to use a zip tie/worm clamp at that point?
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02-08-2012, 09:18 PM
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#10
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Join Date: May 2011
Location: Stow, MA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frogger42
Does this work with 1/2" ID silicone tubing? Would you even need to use a zip tie/worm clamp at that point?
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If you don't take the "bite" off the threads, 1/2"IDx3/4"OD silicone tubing isn't going to fall off. I use Type B females to street elbows with the tubing jammed on the elbow threads and those puppies ain't going anywhere...
Cheers!
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