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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Equipment/Sanitation > Building My First Home Brewery
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Old 01-15-2013, 11:38 PM   #21
SpentGrains
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Keggles are great for up to 10 gallon batches, and since you work with distributors, you can probably get your hands on some decommissioned sanke kegs for pretty cheap.
Seriously, this is how I would go if I had the contacts in the industry- All keggles, 1/4 barrels as fermenters, 1/6 barrel for serving, yadda yadda yadda...
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Old 01-16-2013, 02:00 AM   #22
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Keggles make me a little nervous. They aren't made with the intention to withstand that kind of heat. Does anyone have any issues with warping, or anything like that?

Also, another question: What size sparge water pot would you need for 10 gallon batches?

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Old 01-16-2013, 02:17 AM   #23
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The most bang for your buck would be the 60 quart Concord pot on eBay for $100 shipped. It's stainless steel and at least two vendors here on HBT buy them, add either weldless or welded fittings to them and then resell them. I've read nothing but great reviews of them on here. I'm already on my third brew pot in 4 years. I went from an 8 gallon stainless steel, to a 20 gallon aluminum and I just ordered the 60 qt Concord pot from eBay. I learned the hard way that aluminum brew pots don't work well for electric brewing (the electric element will not fit through a 1.25 inch hole in an aluminum pot).

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Old 01-16-2013, 02:19 AM   #24
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Probably 10 gallons.

If you want to brew 10 gallon batches, get a 15 gallon pot (keg or other). Have another keg or 10 gallon kettle for strike/ sparge. You do NOT need Blichman. It's $$$ for no other reason than bling. Just get a decent kettle that can hold water. The beer won't be able to tell the difference.

And no, I've not had any problems with my keg kettle. It's handled lots of heat for awhile now.

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Old 01-16-2013, 02:38 AM   #25
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I think I'm probably going to buy a 10 gallon SS economy pot (maybe polar ware?), and then upgrade to a really nice 15 or 20 gallon once I switch to all grain, and make the 10 gallon my strike/sparge pot. That seems like the logical thing to do. Mainly since everyone on here seems to have a different way of doing things and thinks it is the best way to do it.

Once you switch to AG you need two burners, is that correct?

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Old 01-16-2013, 02:47 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by Leighton View Post
Keggles make me a little nervous. They aren't made with the intention to withstand that kind of heat. Does anyone have any issues with warping, or anything like that?

Also, another question: What size sparge water pot would you need for 10 gallon batches?
sanke kegs are made of stainless steel, just like most brewing kettles. i don't know what the thickness is on a sanke but it's thicker than most other kettles i've seen, certainly thicker than a blichmann kettle.
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Old 01-16-2013, 05:22 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leighton View Post
Keggles make me a little nervous. They aren't made with the intention to withstand that kind of heat. Does anyone have any issues with warping, or anything like that?

Also, another question: What size sparge water pot would you need for 10 gallon batches?
If you can boil wort in an aluminum pot a SS keg will definitely withstand the heat....
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Old 01-16-2013, 01:42 PM   #28
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You won't need 2 burners, no.

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Old 01-17-2013, 04:14 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by Leighton View Post
Keggles make me a little nervous. They aren't made with the intention to withstand that kind of heat. Does anyone have any issues with warping, or anything like that?

Also, another question: What size sparge water pot would you need for 10 gallon batches?
No, no warping issues whatsoever with at least 15 batches in. The steel is pretty thick. Those things were designed to take a lot of abuse, so they made them pretty sturdy. The only thing that you have to worry about is making sure that some drain holes are already existing or are drilled into the bottom rim of the keg, or else you could have some serious problems. Every keg I've ever seen already has the holes drilled.

I have a second keg for use as an HLT, but I could get away with a 10 gallon HLT since most of my beers are around 1.050 OG and I use around 1.5 quarts per gallon for strike water. We did a 1.074 batch of beer once and if we had brewed our usual 10 gallon batch, then a 10 gallon HLT really would have been pushing it, even at 1.25 quarts per gallon.
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Old 01-17-2013, 04:17 AM   #30
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Once you switch to AG you need two burners, is that correct?
No. But it does make brewing simpler and safer.
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