Desert_Sky
Since 1998
brotherhood, you got yourself a damn fine looking rig there. how do those dual display controllers work?
Brutus Ten ????
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BrotherhoodBrew
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They are PID controllers and after getting them tuned in they work good. They just display both the set point and the current temp at the same time. Plus if I ever go electric I wont need to change the controllers.
Here you go...
I can attach this to a return in the lid if I want to fly sparge via a male compression fitting at the end of the return.
This arm just has a male compression fitting and then a spinning union to it can spin with some pressure. I'll try to post a You Tube video in the neat future.
I drilled 6 holes in each arm to give it some directional pressure so it spins.
Where do you get those spinning unions? I haven't seen anything like that.
I'm having a hard time deciding how to handle the lid returns. In the BYO article, Lonnie describes his method of recirculating the HLT to itself and the MLT to itself until the mash runnings are clear, the flow rates are equalized, and its time to start sparging. At that point, he simultaneously moves the MLT lid to the boil kettle and the HLT lid to the MLT. This starts the process of draining the mash runnings to the boil kettle and starting the sparge.
It doesn't really matter what kind of return is on the HLT. You could have a mash-suitable return on your HLT and MLT lids so that when you shift the lids over the mash continues to get the benefit of an appropriate non-channeling return. It might be a copper tube with holes drilled in it, or a spinning sparge arm, or a stationary copper pipe return designed to sit on top of the grain. Any of these would cause HSA as wort splashes into the boil kettle when you shift the MLT lid over to it, right? Or is that irrelevant since it is pre-boil? Also, a mash-suitable return wouldn't be the best when you are recirculating wort through your plate chiller post-boil to cool it. You could clog it up with break material and hop debris that made it past your siphon screen.
Those of you who do the lid swapping routine, what solutions have you come up with? I thought about adding quick-disconnect fittings on top of the lids and just swapping hoses, but that means you'd have to stop your pumps and resynchronize the flow rates. Still, that might be a better solution since you could then have a return on the underside of each lid that is appropriate for the kettle it belongs to.
It doesn't really matter what kind of return is on the HLT. You could have a mash-suitable return on your HLT and MLT lids so that when you shift the lids over the mash continues to get the benefit of an appropriate non-channeling return. It might be a copper tube with holes drilled in it, or a spinning sparge arm, or a stationary copper pipe return designed to sit on top of the grain. Any of these would cause HSA as wort splashes into the boil kettle when you shift the MLT lid over to it, right? Or is that irrelevant since it is pre-boil? Also, a mash-suitable return wouldn't be the best when you are recirculating wort through your plate chiller post-boil to cool it. You could clog it up with break material and hop debris that made it past your siphon screen.
Those of you who do the lid swapping routine, what solutions have you come up with? I thought about adding quick-disconnect fittings on top of the lids and just swapping hoses, but that means you'd have to stop your pumps and resynchronize the flow rates. Still, that might be a better solution since you could then have a return on the underside of each lid that is appropriate for the kettle it belongs to.
korndog
Well-Known Member
Here is what I do:
1. I have an "H" shaped return manifold for the MT that is on a long piece of copper so that it is height adjustable through a drilled out compression fitting. I switch this lid to the boil kettle where I lower the manifold to the bottom of the kettle to avoid HSA splashing. I pump at a resonable rate of speed to avoid same.
2. My HLT return is simply a flexible stainless steel tube which never leaves the HLT.
3. My boil lid has another flexible return with a nozzle, which serves as a whirlpool arm and again is not used on other vessels.
Photos in gallery.
KD
That helps me quite a bit, KD. Your MT lid is only used on the BK for delivering the wort, and you use your dedicated BK lid later for whirlpooling/recirculation.
I like your adjustable height copper tube MT manifold. That's a great idea to use the compression fitting. Wouldn't it work just as well with a plain hole in the lid? The manifold is either going to sit on top of the grain or at the bottom of the BK, so it doesn't need any tensioning.
I take it you are batch sparging? If you were fly sparging with the lid setup you described, I'd think you'd need another adjustable manifold lid to get water from the HLT to the MT while you're pumping your wort out the bottom of the MT to the BK.
I like your adjustable height copper tube MT manifold. That's a great idea to use the compression fitting. Wouldn't it work just as well with a plain hole in the lid? The manifold is either going to sit on top of the grain or at the bottom of the BK, so it doesn't need any tensioning.
I take it you are batch sparging? If you were fly sparging with the lid setup you described, I'd think you'd need another adjustable manifold lid to get water from the HLT to the MT while you're pumping your wort out the bottom of the MT to the BK.
mrbowenz
Well-Known Member
This is pretty close to what I do, I have a cork screw shaped return circle, when throttling the return valve , I can maintain water on top of the grain bed ( to prevent drilling ) and get a nice recirculation of wort going. My lids like Korndog don't move position, the water in the HLT stays put, although with my cleaning mode, I can utilize that hot water to clean and recirculate sanitized water throughout the whole system or to clean carboys/cornys.
Here's some pics:
Top:
Corkscrew:
Here's the updated control panel:
I like the compactness of your MLT sparge ring lid, mrbowenz. Very nice. I checked out the pics in your gallery too. Your entire system seems very well thought out.
I believe I'm going to go with the KD style adjustable height manifold though. It's just as easy to build, and I have a bunch of 1/2 inch type M copper pipe I might as well use.
I believe I'm going to go with the KD style adjustable height manifold though. It's just as easy to build, and I have a bunch of 1/2 inch type M copper pipe I might as well use.
korndog
Well-Known Member
Actually yes, but the manifold will sink into the mash. You can get a nice tight spring clamp though, and float it where you want. No need for the fittings.
On the sparging:
No problem fly sparging. You just don't get the lid switch. You pump into the brew kettle drain.
korndog
Well-Known Member
Here's a picture. Yes, it's a little tweaked. Sorry about my wife getting in the way of the picture. 
Here's a picture. Yes, it's a little tweaked. Sorry about my wife getting in the way of the picture.
Why did you crop?
Your framing is WAY out.
Desert_Sky
Since 1998
my thoughts exactly
korndog
Well-Known Member
tjferris
Well-Known Member
Well I'm pretty pleased. I got my first spark fired burner up and running! It's very cool.
ok i haven't got all the way thru the thread yet but how did you set up the spark ignition module? where and what type of parts did you get, do you have any model numbers? That looks like a nice idea to further automate things!!
Thanks
korndog
Well-Known Member
korndog,
What was the source of your stainless flex line used in your lids? I've found several with stainless flex but brass ends. Yours seem to be 100% stainless.
Thanks...
What was the source of your stainless flex line used in your lids? I've found several with stainless flex but brass ends. Yours seem to be 100% stainless.
Thanks...
korndog
Well-Known Member
They are made by a company called Falcon Stainless. You can find them here half way down the page or so:
Stainless steel flex connectors - PlumbingSupply.com
Thanks Korndog, got em on order!
I know you guys are all done but I thought I would post a pic of where I am with mine. Here is the stand wich i cleaned / primed / primed / primed / painted / painted / painted.
I have my asco's, my ball valves, and my burners. If i can run to the store this weekend I will try to get them assembled to the stand. I was wandering if i should paint my gas lines like red or greeen or something. I havnt decided yet.
I have my asco's, my ball valves, and my burners. If i can run to the store this weekend I will try to get them assembled to the stand. I was wandering if i should paint my gas lines like red or greeen or something. I havnt decided yet.
korndog
Well-Known Member
I know you guys are all done but I thought I would post a pic of where I am with mine. Here is the stand wich i cleaned / primed / primed / primed / painted / painted / painted.
I have my asco's, my ball valves, and my burners. If i can run to the store this weekend I will try to get them assembled to the stand. I was wandering if i should paint my gas lines like red or greeen or something. I havnt decided yet.
I have seen gas lines painted yellow. What kind of pilot system are you using?
Have you considered pilot safety valves?
I am going to build my pilot system like lonnie mac did. Im no good at wiring all this stuff up and while this method isnt the preferred, Its cheaper and I will be minding the brew anyway as I brew in my party garage.
korndog
Well-Known Member
Ok, if you do want to put in a safety valve, they are available on ebay for about 20-30 bucks each. Baso makes them.
I know you guys are all done but I thought I would post a pic of where I am with mine. Here is the stand wich i cleaned / primed / primed / primed / painted / painted / painted.
I have my asco's, my ball valves, and my burners. If i can run to the store this weekend I will try to get them assembled to the stand. I was wandering if i should paint my gas lines like red or greeen or something. I havnt decided yet.
Are you going to be doing the control panel, too? If so how do you plan on mounting it? I'm thinking of building one of these myself and am looking for ideas.
http://https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/review-my-brutus-clone-82652/a linke to a post i made with CAD screengrabs of my plan.
I plan on adding a rotationg arm on the control panel so that I can get it out of the way when Im finished brewing.
For those looking for an economical control/safety value combination I found the these to be a good fit:
Drillspot.com:
Honeywell Q314A6094 Pilot Burner $23.32
White Rodgers 764-742 Gas Pilot Safety Valve $68.45
Honeywell Q340A1066 Thermocouple $6.62
Fremont Industrial Supply:
STC 2 way normally closed solenoid valve, 1/2" npt 120/60 volts AC
STC 1/2: NPT $46.20
Drillspot.com:
Honeywell Q314A6094 Pilot Burner $23.32
White Rodgers 764-742 Gas Pilot Safety Valve $68.45
Honeywell Q340A1066 Thermocouple $6.62
Fremont Industrial Supply:
STC 2 way normally closed solenoid valve, 1/2" npt 120/60 volts AC
STC 1/2: NPT $46.20
mrbowenz
Well-Known Member
No special reason I can think of, my system is HLT, BK, MT
korndog
Well-Known Member
link not working for me.
Damonic
Well-Known Member
Ooh, that pricing looks decent.
Gumby1974
Member
Anyone see any problems with these heatshields. Fashioned from a Corney keg :rockin:
It looks crooked but I swear it is square.
One more Piece of stainless from a Corney to make a pump cover
It looks crooked but I swear it is square.
One more Piece of stainless from a Corney to make a pump cover
OK here are some pics of my build so far,
I know its not great, but hey its mine.
Thanks to KornDog for all the help with this, without his help there is NO way I could have done it.
The control panel is pretty straight forward, 2 PID temp controllers, 2 timers, 2 lighted pump switches, and 1 main power lighted switch.
Its still not done but hey, is brewing gadgetry EVER done?
so without further adoo,
I know its not great, but hey its mine.
Thanks to KornDog for all the help with this, without his help there is NO way I could have done it.
The control panel is pretty straight forward, 2 PID temp controllers, 2 timers, 2 lighted pump switches, and 1 main power lighted switch.
Its still not done but hey, is brewing gadgetry EVER done?
so without further adoo,
One mor pic
Desert_Sky
Since 1998
Where did you hear that? It would depend on the type of vessels you would be using. I bet you could pull over 80% easily if you did it right
korndog
Well-Known Member
Looking good! Show us some flame when you get it wired up.
Desert_Sky
Since 1998
well its not that it's bad, but I'd sure complain if I was only getting 74%
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