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Old 02-25-2009, 04:51 AM   #41
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The original design was based off the Brutus 10 (Home of Brutus Ten!) so I used the same 2" x 2" X .120 wall stainless steel. Yes, it may be overkill, but I'd rather err on the side of caution when 100+ lbs of boiling water and grain are suspended in front of me. It I happen to need a stand to support my truck while I change the oil, I also have it.
OK, I now understand the reason why such a heavy brew frame, you being a chebbie owner. FE land over on this end, over a million miles each F250 and F350 truck. Still on only motor number four of original miles. That would be 500K plus pulling boats the length of the California central valley 39 years. Yup over 60K a year for a few years, business calls. I went thru chebbies and stooges years ago. I have a old tired 1996 D6N Catapillar, 150 HP 36,500# 125 bar Argricultural in use at the ranch for spring grading can I bring over test your brew stand? All Joking aside it looks great. I'm thinking just to be different why not use 4130 Chromoly aircraft tubing, light and strong plus my past aviation and drag racing background thinking again. Brew on bro....
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Old 02-25-2009, 09:24 PM   #42
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Day-yum! That is awesome! I am *so* jealous. I'm getting close to doing one myself and never having used one, I'm a bit concerned about making big design mistakes. I've read the brutus, B3, and Sabco info and like things about all of them.. and hate some things about each.

This is the closest I've seen to perfection!

One question.. this has been a concern of mine with several of the designs... Why have the control panel mounted in front, especially fixed mount with sharp corners?

It seems like I'd constantly be walking around it.. or knowing me (I'm quite a clutz, having lost my right eye picking up a bucket of water. Top that!), walking into the corner, severing an artery and bleeding out in the driveway.

... or, isn't this an issue?

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Old 02-25-2009, 09:34 PM   #43
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Thanks! I've been very pleased with it so far, especially after adding the "bleeder" valves to the pumps. Those make getting a prime on the March pumps SO much easier. I'd definitely recommend that set up to anyone using a March pump.

So far, the location of the control panel hasn't been an issue. We thought about going with something similar to the Brutus 10, with the control panel mount coming off a corner diagonally. Ultimately, I didn't like the extra space it added to the footprint. I also wanted easy access to the controls, especially the pump switches, when I was brewing. We decided to go with a control panel closer to the MoreBeer 1100 for ease of use and footprint size.

The control panel really doesn't stick out TOO far from the body of the stand, and the bottom of it is pretty low. Since I'm a pretty tall guy, I'd need to really crouch down to hit my head. Just to be safe though, the bottom corners are all rounded. It would still hurt, but it shouldn't draw blood, hopefully. It's also far enough from the pumps that the risk of me hitting something when I'm messing with them is pretty low.

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Old 01-25-2010, 02:40 AM   #44
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After another year brewing on the stand, we went back and made a few enhancements and fixes.

We added another ball valve in the plumbing to the low-pressure burner after the Honeywell valve and plugged 10 jets on the 23-jet low-pressure burner to reduce the BTU output. The change and fixes were mostly due to heat stress and cracking on the frame. I updated my original Picasa link post here with pictures of the revision:

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/brut...69/#post763614

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Old 01-27-2010, 09:44 PM   #45
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i love your build man, i'm thinking of cloneing it to make clone brews in

do you remember what you paid for the stainless materials alone?

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Old 01-28-2010, 01:37 AM   #46
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i love your build man, i'm thinking of cloneing in to make clone brews in

do you remember what you paid for the stainless materials alone?
The stainless was bought when the market was much closer to the peak. I don't recall the exact amount, but it was a nice chunk of change, especially since the basket for the tippy dump was custom fabricated.

That said, I'd do it all over again. The stainless is much easier to maintain and clean. I don't have to worry about painting, and if I get some stains on the stand, some Bar Keeper's Friend takes it off nicely.

Stainless isn't cheap, but this thing should last for quite some time. If all else fails, as someone else pointed out, I can park a car on it.
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Old 01-28-2010, 11:48 AM   #47
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The stainless was bought when the market was much closer to the peak. I don't recall the exact amount, but it was a nice chunk of change, especially since the basket for the tippy dump was custom fabricated.

That said, I'd do it all over again. The stainless is much easier to maintain and clean. I don't have to worry about painting, and if I get some stains on the stand, some Bar Keeper's Friend takes it off nicely.

Stainless isn't cheap, but this thing should last for quite some time. If all else fails, as someone else pointed out, I can park a car on it.
and there was no issues welding it with the hobart handler? I have the identical welding setup for doing my hot rodding i am assuming that was stainless wire?
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Old 01-28-2010, 01:21 PM   #48
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and there was no issues welding it with the hobart handler? I have the identical welding setup for doing my hot rodding i am assuming that was stainless wire?
The MIG welding was a learning on the job type experience for both my step Dad and me. The Hobart worked well, but we did get some spattering occasionally that required some clean up (lots of grinding). That may have been user error or may have been the machine. A TIG might work better, but I couldn't afford one.

Everything on the stand, including the repairs last weekend, was done with the Hobart, stainless wire and an Argon gas mix. For a smaller welder, it held its own.
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Old 01-28-2010, 03:03 PM   #49
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The MIG welding was a learning on the job type experience for both my step Dad and me. The Hobart worked well, but we did get some spattering occasionally that required some clean up (lots of grinding). That may have been user error or may have been the machine. A TIG might work better, but I couldn't afford one.

Everything on the stand, including the repairs last weekend, was done with the Hobart, stainless wire and an Argon gas mix. For a smaller welder, it held its own.
yeah, on that machine, you only have a short duty cycle, i hate it. welds look good tho. bumping the gas pressure up a few psi and turning the wire speed down just a hair will help keep the spatter down. i have mine set to 15 psi While the trigger is being pulled. be sure to set it that way, not while its off (if you didn't already). same as a paint gun

i've been hotrodding cars and trucks for half my life, now i want to make a nice hotrod themed brewstand and fridge for the garage
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Old 01-28-2010, 05:17 PM   #50
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yeah, on that machine, you only have a short duty cycle, i hate it. welds look good tho. bumping the gas pressure up a few psi and turning the wire speed down just a hair will help keep the spatter down. i have mine set to 15 psi While the trigger is being pulled. be sure to set it that way, not while its off (if you didn't already). same as a paint gun

i've been hotrodding cars and trucks for half my life, now i want to make a nice hotrod themed brewstand and fridge for the garage
Yup, the duty cycle is a killer, but we got used to working around "breaks" for the Hobart. I think we were using about 11 psi last weekend. Next time we weld, I'll bump it up a bit. Thanks for the tip.

The welder can definitely make you a nice stand. You just have to know how to work with it. It sounds like you have that part covered though. Build a nice one!
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