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Old 02-24-2010, 09:27 PM   #31
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Had the BYO mag when it came out, got the "plans" today.


TD

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Old 02-24-2010, 09:28 PM   #32
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THat regulator will bolt right onto a standard propane cylinder?

TD

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Old 02-24-2010, 09:56 PM   #33
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Shonuff hombre

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Old 03-01-2010, 04:23 PM   #34
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On a slightly different note, but also relating to the Brutus builds...

I plan NOT to route the wires internally - mostly because I want to get the cart welded up first before I plan the wiring part, and since that means I'll be doing the drilling, no thanks...

Well, after reading the sticky about exploding keggles, due to bottom rim not having any perforations, and pressure build-up, I was curious about the Brutus.

While the only weld designed to be airtight, is the gas beam and its multiple welds, it is possible and likely that all the welds are airtight. On the top surface which gets really hot, since the frame is sealed, is it likely to explode like the Sanke keggle story?

Has anyone drilled pressure relief holes into their brutus?

TD

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Old 03-01-2010, 08:45 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrickyDick View Post
On a slightly different note, but also relating to the Brutus builds...

I plan NOT to route the wires internally - mostly because I want to get the cart welded up first before I plan the wiring part, and since that means I'll be doing the drilling, no thanks...

Well, after reading the sticky about exploding keggles, due to bottom rim not having any perforations, and pressure build-up, I was curious about the Brutus.

While the only weld designed to be airtight, is the gas beam and its multiple welds, it is possible and likely that all the welds are airtight. On the top surface which gets really hot, since the frame is sealed, is it likely to explode like the Sanke keggle story?

Has anyone drilled pressure relief holes into their brutus?

TD
Actually I never completely welded the bottom welds on the upper surface! You could probably see that in the vids I just posted last night in the general beer... I always told myself that I would get around to it but by then I was brewing on it already! And the dang frame is plenty strong enough anyway... If you are concerned, drill a .250 hole on the bottom of each member on the upper heat surface.
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Old 03-06-2010, 07:29 PM   #36
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Regarding usage of Blichmann Boilermaker Kettles on the BRUTUS with the stepped bottom.

With the 12 inch squares for resting the kettles on, and 16 inch square including 2 inch tubing size (and noting 2 inch spacing between the next tubing which you could halve) give max diameter kettle of just under 17" not counting handles (those handles face front to back, not side to side), or lip on the rim, without having the kettles touching each other. (I measured my Keggle diameter at 15.5 as a reference)

According the Blichmann website,

Size Side Wall Diameter Base Step Diameter Thermo Stem
10 Gal 13.8 10.9 4.0 Gal
15 Gal 15.7 12.8 6.5 Gal
20 Gal 17.7 14.8 8.25 Gal

The 20 Gallon is out - kettles are 17.7 diameter

The 15 Gallon is ok in diameter 15.7, but the base step is 12.8 - I would worry that with only .4 inches of contact on each side, that the weight of a full kettle would deform or indent the base, and perhaps if this happened in the Mash Tun, that the mash screen might not seal correctly. Also would worry the vessel might fall or tip over if budged slightly and the base step slipped towards one side.

The 10 gallon looks like it'll fit fine. My current Mash tun is 10 gallons and I've never maxed it out. Could still probably brew even the biggest beers I would want by using a thicker mash, or a double mash or simply adding some DME. Switching to a recirculated mash however, I may want to run a thinner mash than before. That being said, I might also like to try some 10 gallon batches just because, and would also rather have a 15 gallon Boil Kettle to avoid boilovers.

Could use my existing kettle, but the rounded bottom has always been a peeve to me. Also, would be too tall to reach into at the default rig height of 33 3/8 when counting the casters & sockets (5 3/8) plus the 28 stock height in plans (either of the 10 or 15 gallon sizes would work fine for me). Also, the 4.0 gallon thermometer stem on the 10 gallon kettle is fine. The 6.5 gallon thermo stem on the 15 gallon kettle would be difficult to work with when brewing 5 gallon batches.

In light of all of these variables and trade-off, what have the rest of you chosen for your vessels? I see plenty of keggles out there, a quite a few Boilermakers as well.

Welcoming any suggestions or advice here.

Thanks!

TD

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Old 03-06-2010, 08:31 PM   #37
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Just change the spacing of the upper cross members as per the pots you buy. I have the boilermakers and I just changed the spacing to fit the 15's (I use these for MT/HLT). It only takes a slight position change as I recall. Piece of cake...

And by the way, the boliermaker thermostems are indeed a bit high for 5 gallon batches but I mostly do 5 gallon batches anyway. Once your love probes are calibrated and set, you won't need the boilermaker thermometers.

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Old 03-07-2010, 02:42 AM   #38
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That's great!

For some strange reason I was thinking that the thermo ports were the sight-glass.
Yeah, their use will be essentially none, once I've got the thermocouples going.

Would you mind measuring your setup as far as the spacing goes?
Did you move them closer together I assume?

Thanks!

Are you also fermenting in one of the kettles when you're done?

TD

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Old 03-07-2010, 04:45 PM   #39
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No HD or Lowes won't have it but 8020 will. Here's a link:

http://www.8020.net/

All you need to do is get the Brutus plans and in there they have a cut list. Buy 1.5" or 2" for the main parts of the frame. I went with 3" x 1.5" top bars to better support 3 pots worth of hot boiling water and wort. It's robust, even when hot. You could put Kevin Smith up there and it would hold.

this 80/20 T slot stuff looks like a great clean economical no-weld option

Can casters be fitted into the bottoms easily?

anyone draw up any plans for a rig using this stuff?, looking for a 2 tier design myself using 3 keggles
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Old 03-08-2010, 03:17 PM   #40
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Tricky, I can measure but can't do it right away. I recall the 20 fits with the original Lonnie spec of 12" and I seem to think I moved the HLT/MT stations down to around 10.5" but not quite sure. All I know is they fit fine. I tend to move them a bit up towards me as the operator to keep the ball valves from getting too hot. Seems to work just fine.

Edit: forgot to say NO I don't use a kettle for fermenting. I need the kettles for brewing so I can't let one out of the rotation. I use a Blichmann conical, a sanke keg and about 8 buckets. I have a few glass carboys as well but I use these for sours and they are in my closet most of the year.

Vince yes mine has casters and it's super easy as the t-slot has a center hole you can thread a bolt right into. I can easily roll it round with the casters unlocked, even loaded but my practice is to set it locked and not roll it while brewing. Just use the standard cut list from Lonnie's plans but add a foot to the front beam as this extends out to mount your control panel on. It not a big stretch to improvise Lonnies plans using 8020. If you are really mechanically challenged, you can fax them Lonnies drawings and they can draw it up and send you all the parts ready to assemble but that will typically cost a bit more. Since I had a bunch lying around, I just did it myself.

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Last edited by Irrenarzt; 03-08-2010 at 03:35 PM.
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