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Old 02-16-2010, 02:39 PM   #11
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No HD or Lowes won't have it but 8020 will. Here's a link:

http://www.8020.net/

All you need to do is get the Brutus plans and in there they have a cut list. Buy 1.5" or 2" for the main parts of the frame. I went with 3" x 1.5" top bars to better support 3 pots worth of hot boiling water and wort. It's robust, even when hot. You could put Kevin Smith up there and it would hold.

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Last edited by Irrenarzt; 02-16-2010 at 06:01 PM.
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Old 02-16-2010, 05:37 PM   #12
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I love using the 80/20 stuff...totally idiot proof...a little pricey but cheaper than stainless and a welder.

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Old 02-17-2010, 03:02 PM   #13
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You could put Kevin Smith up there and it would hold.
LOL, good name drop.

"THE SIGN on the back of the car said "Critters Of HOLLYWOOD", YOU DUMB F*CK!"

I'm definitely gonna check out the t-slot as an alternative to da schteel. I'll letcha know whats I comes up withs.
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Old 02-20-2010, 09:19 PM   #14
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Glad to see I'm not the only one who waited to build a Brutus when the BYO issue came out. I've sent a couple of emails to Lonnie requesting some other plans I've read he has.

Got the Stainless Steel 20' x $143 each, and SS flat panels $25 ea. x2
Buddy owns a body shop and has guys that will do welding.
Getting some sockets for the casters - and prices some from Castercity - Owen, the owner didn't recommend the same casters Lonnie speced in his article, but some Olefin which he said would be better for prolonged parking. I dunno haven't bought them yet.

Now I'm on to the Gas issue. I have some major headaches about this. Burner height issues, which burners to get (Ones from BYO aren't listed on morebeer anymore), what regulator to use, wether to use gas beam, etc, not to mention solenoids..

I think it has to do with pressure of the gas - in my case LP. I'm planning to do the gas beam. I don't know how man BTU's I'll need for the burners, or how to determine wether I can use LP, NG or both on any given burner, and what it's gas requirement will be in terms of PSI in order to function properly and make its maximum rated BTUs. I'm shooting for 75k to 125k range for the burners. I have a hose type regulator for my King Kooker burner I use now, but it has a small hose, that I doubt could support 3x100k BTU burners.

Looks like Lonnie's burners are 12 jet burners with 2 plugged off. Supose I could find some of those (anyoe have a source for high quality non-leaking 12 jet burners?), but what about the jets and plugs? Any sources ? I assume the propane jets are different than the NG jets or is this wrong? Any problems (with pressure issues) using the banjo Burner/Hurricane burner sold over on NB site?

Also the solenoids, I was thinking that Honeywell, and rodgers white have some nice solenoids, that have integrated pilot and safety thermowell to make sure pilot is lit before opening, all built in. I think this is the one used on the Morebeer sculpture.

I'd prefer pilots, and would also want to add on some shrouds for the burners, maybe some "stays" to keep the pots in place on top.
Also be nice to be able to adjust the burner flame from up front rather than from the back of the rig

I've read some have their brutus tip over !!! Anyone else out there have a problem with this? Also was thinking it'd be nice to have a control panel that's enclosed in a box, and that can fold away for easy storage when its parked in the garage. Ive yet to see any plans for a tippy-dump where the link hadn't expired, though I doubt, it'd be too difficult to simply hand dump or scoop.

Lastly, I was thinking about using a Blichmann 15 gallon boilermaker for the mash tun, and if I can afford, for all 3 vessels. I've read that there are chamfered bottoms, which makes it tricky to fit, but it will work on the standard plans.

Comments? Lonnie, any chance of getting more detailed plans (such as where to have holes drilled in the stainless for routing wires through the stand?)?

Thanks!

TD

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Old 02-21-2010, 01:36 AM   #15
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I'm currently acquiring all the parts I need. I figured I would get the steel last.

I have ALSO sent a couple of emails to Lonnie requesting some other plans I've read he has. Still haven't heard back from him, so let me know if you do, please.

I bought ASCO valves, the EF8210G087V and the EF8210G087, after reading this thread:

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/know...d-valve-51486/

I got three 1/2 keggles, a couple of 55k BTU burners (bayou classic and king kooker), all the ball valves, and all my other normal all grain equipment (cooler, immersion chiller, etc.) so I still have A LOT more to go...

Do you think I need burners with more BTU?

Some have had it tip over? I might have to design some kind of legs that can extend out on brew day for added stability. Shouldn't be too difficult. That's only if I hear this from at least several other people.

I'll be addin' some water heater elements that I would use WITHOUT the propane runnin. Too much PITA to have both runnin at once. That way, I can brew indoors and outdoors.

That's all I can think of to say for now, I'll post more once I sober up.

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Old 02-21-2010, 02:28 AM   #16
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Sounds good.

Where did you source your ASCO valves?

I have a King Kooker but it used high pressure LP I believe. Very Noisy. I am not sure if the Low pressure burners in Lonnie's design are quieter or not, I've never heard one. Anyway, the King Kooker cast burner I use I asctually ported with a dremel on a whim - not sure how much that'll improve BTU rating, but anyway, Its always been more than enough to get a Keggle Boiling darn quick - never timed before. You know It all depends on how fast you want to heat things up. For HLT burner, onces its up to temp, not going to need too many BTU's to maintain, same with Boil Kettle, and ditto for Direct-Fired mash tun. It all depends on how long you want to wait. As I haven't built mine yet, I cannot attest to step-mashing times though.

Haven't heard from Lonnie - PM'ed him here, and emailed him at Alenuts. Granted its only been a couple days.

Another area I'd like some advice on is the Lid returns idea. I know he has 90 elbows into the lids, but what beneath that? I'm planning to batch sparge, but during the mash recirc, I'd think you'll want even return flow so as not to disturb the grain bed. I can't tell from the BYO article, what goes UNDER the lid. Boil Kettle, and HLT could care less about the return... well maybe.

As an aside, HSA issue - how does that work again? You want to avoid hot side aeration I know, but what about sloshing hot wort into the boil kettle? Does that count?

TD

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Old 02-21-2010, 02:51 AM   #17
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Here's a pic of mine, finished it back at the end of October. I've had to adapt a bit to the new setup but I think I've got it pretty dialed in now.

What size Blichman kettles are those?
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Old 02-22-2010, 05:56 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Irrenarzt View Post
No HD or Lowes won't have it but 8020 will. Here's a link:

http://www.8020.net/

All you need to do is get the Brutus plans and in there they have a cut list. Buy 1.5" or 2" for the main parts of the frame. I went with 3" x 1.5" top bars to better support 3 pots worth of hot boiling water and wort. It's robust, even when hot. You could put Kevin Smith up there and it would hold.
Do you have any more pics of your setup?, i may want to build something similar myself, i'd like to see what joining plates you used in particular

Thanks!
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Old 02-22-2010, 06:00 PM   #19
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I'll have to take some. That was just a quickie iPhone pic.

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Old 02-22-2010, 06:01 PM   #20
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What size Blichman kettles are those?
20 for boil/15 MT/15 HLT
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