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07-06-2012, 12:50 AM
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#721
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Land of the Free
Posts: 347
Liked 3 Times on 3 Posts
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thatjonguy
Here is a pic of the lower half of my Brewhemoth, as you may notice, I went with a TC version. But the transfer process works the same, just with different (and in your case, less) fittings.
I opted to use a TC beer thread adapter instead of ordering a TC 1/4" hose barb (which were hard to find when I ordered my fittings) with a 1/4" MFL tailpiece.
I complied this list of fittings to order from Midwest for you, this should be everything you need assuming you have a 1/4" MFL on your gas line from your regulator.
If not, you should. MFLs are the way to set everything up in your kegerator so it is easy to go from commercial to corny and back.
1/4" MFL to 1/2" NPT X 1
http://www.midwestsupplies.com/1-4-mfl-to-1-2-npt.html
Barbed Swivel Nut, 1/4" Flare, 1/4" Barb X 2
http://www.midwestsupplies.com/barbed-swivel-nut-1-4-flare-5-16-barb-2.html
Ball Lock Liquid Disconnect, Threaded X 1 (If you don't have a spare)
http://www.midwestsupplies.com/ball-lock-liquid-fitting-threaded.html
Ball Lock Gas Disconnect, Threaded X 1 (if you don't have a spare, for the pressurizer)
http://www.midwestsupplies.com/ball-lock-gas-fitting-threaded.html
1/4" ID Beer/Gas Line X 5 (feet)
http://www.midwestsupplies.com/beer-and-gas-line.html
Stainless Steel Tubing Clamp X 2
http://www.midwestsupplies.com/stainless-steel-tubing-clamp.html
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Awesome! Thanks for all the links!
For some reason the pic isn't showing up for me?? 
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07-06-2012, 04:16 AM
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#722
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Feedback Score: 1 reviews
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Minot, North Dakota
Posts: 602
Liked 26 Times on 23 Posts Likes Given: 1
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PM me your email, I will send it to you.
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07-06-2012, 01:18 PM
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#723
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Land of the Free
Posts: 347
Liked 3 Times on 3 Posts
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by thatjonguy
PM me your email, I will send it to you.
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Thanks for sending over the pic
My brewhemoth is the v2.0 setup so it doesn't have tri clover fittings, will the setup you suggested still work?? (I ordered all that stuff yesterday)
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07-06-2012, 03:30 PM
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#724
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Feedback Score: 1 reviews
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Minot, North Dakota
Posts: 602
Liked 26 Times on 23 Posts Likes Given: 1
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by brentt03
Thanks for sending over the pic
My brewhemoth is the v2.0 setup so it doesn't have tri clover fittings, will the setup you suggested still work?? (I ordered all that stuff yesterday)
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It should, I put that list together assuming a ball valve with a 1/2 inch NPT out.
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07-07-2012, 02:52 PM
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#725
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Feedback Score: 1 reviews
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Minot, North Dakota
Posts: 602
Liked 26 Times on 23 Posts Likes Given: 1
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In case anyone cared, I fixed the image in my post about racking from Brewhemoth to keg.
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07-08-2012, 11:04 PM
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#726
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Land of the Free
Posts: 347
Liked 3 Times on 3 Posts
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I do have another question about checking the gravity from the brewhemoth during fermentation. What are some methods you all use??
I have an Irish red that has been fermenting for 8 days. Today I went by there to check the gravity. I just put the test tube under the racking port and poured some in there but I don't feel like I got a good reading since it was dirty from yeast settling and such.
Also along the same lines, when you guys rack to the keg do you first dump the yeast and rack beer off till it runs clean then fill??
Any input would be awesome!! Thanks!!
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07-13-2012, 06:16 PM
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#727
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Ithaca, NY
Posts: 548
Liked 2 Times on 2 Posts Likes Given: 5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brentt03
I do have another question about checking the gravity from the brewhemoth during fermentation. What are some methods you all use??
I have an Irish red that has been fermenting for 8 days. Today I went by there to check the gravity. I just put the test tube under the racking port and poured some in there but I don't feel like I got a good reading since it was dirty from yeast settling and such.
Also along the same lines, when you guys rack to the keg do you first dump the yeast and rack beer off till it runs clean then fill??
Any input would be awesome!! Thanks!!
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Dump the trub after a couple of days.
Do a yeast dump after fermentation slows down.
Then you should be able to take a pretty good sample from your sampling port.
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07-13-2012, 06:17 PM
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#728
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Ithaca, NY
Posts: 548
Liked 2 Times on 2 Posts Likes Given: 5
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For pressure ferment people:
When are you introducing pressure to the conical? A couple days after fermentation? A week? When is enough time to harness enough CO2 to carbonate?
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07-13-2012, 07:08 PM
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#729
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Hannibal, MO
Posts: 547
Liked 8 Times on 8 Posts Likes Given: 1
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I put the pressure relief valve on right away and set it to ferment at 5psi right off the bat. The pressure comes from the fermentation. As for carbonating, it depends on when the fermentation winds down. A few points of graivty is enough to carbonate to 2volumes.
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07-13-2012, 09:55 PM
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#730
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Ithaca, NY
Posts: 548
Liked 2 Times on 2 Posts Likes Given: 5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lennie
I put the pressure relief valve on right away and set it to ferment at 5psi right off the bat. The pressure comes from the fermentation. As for carbonating, it depends on when the fermentation winds down. A few points of graivty is enough to carbonate to 2volumes.
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So do you use the pressure release instead of a blow off tube/airlock?
How do you carbonate? do you crank it up to whatever PSI it needs at the fermentation temperature in order to get it to the desired # of volumes?
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