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Old 03-19-2010, 01:54 AM   #711
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But still stick with 10 ga. for the 240V i would assume.. and keep everything with the proper 4 colors wire..

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Old 03-19-2010, 09:43 PM   #712
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But still stick with 10 ga. for the 240V i would assume.. and keep everything with the proper 4 colors wire..
The voltage has nothing to do with the size of the wire. You can use 18ga on 240VAC. It is about load, not voltage
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Old 03-19-2010, 10:13 PM   #713
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The voltage has nothing to do with the size of the wire. You can use 18ga on 240VAC. It is about load, not voltage
To be exact, it is current (amperage) we care about.

Load is usually how we refer to impedence. I know some use this term for the wattage of a device (power), but I don't.
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Old 03-15-2011, 10:53 PM   #714
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not to dig up an old thread but i have my 240V electric herms up and running, thanks in large part to this thread. So a big thank you is in order Pol! (whether you're gone or not)

A couple suggestions to anyone attempting this:

go with the RTD sensor, the k-type is a POS and having that tether to the control box is a PITA (yes, you can unscrew the k-type pretty easy, but not when there is liquid in the keggle, and you'll wish you could)

the pid is simple and nice, but i kinda wish i spent the extra to go with computer controls

look at different 1" couplers for the element, a 90 degree bend might work better for your setup

Relevant to running control box off a 3-prong outlet, if you have a 4-prong be happy and ignore this:
I don't remember where this thread left off on the ground/neutral issue/3-prong, but this can run unsafely by having all your grounds go to a ground bar and then attach that ground bar to the neutral wire coming in from a 3-prong outlet. This of course is without a GFI. BUT It is pretty easy (and cheap) to run a ground wire from your circuit breaker, or even just from a copper pipe drain (that might not actually be safe, I'm not an electrician so don't listen to anything i say) to supplement a 3-prong outlet.

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Old 03-15-2011, 11:32 PM   #715
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I don't remember where this thread left off on the ground/neutral issue/3-prong, but this can run unsafely by having all your grounds go to a ground bar and then attach that ground bar to the neutral wire coming in from a 3-prong outlet. This of course is without a GFI. BUT It is pretty easy (and cheap) to run a ground wire from your circuit breaker, or even just from a copper pipe drain (that might not actually be safe, I'm not an electrician so don't listen to anything i say) to supplement a 3-prong outlet.
A ground and GFI are two completely different things. One does not replace the other.

I'm not sure if you're telling people to attach a ground bar in their control panel to the neutral, so it's worth mentioning:

You should also NEVER attach a ground the NEUTRAL anywhere other than inside your house breaker panel! IN MOST PLACES IN NORTH AMERICA (most likely all) THIS IS AGAINST CODE!

Please read this electrical primer for brewers: http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/ele...rewers-145019/

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Old 03-16-2011, 12:10 AM   #716
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Electricity will kill you, understand it before you use it.

Correct, GFI and ground are two separate things. A GFI can not run on a 3-prong cord (without ground) was my only point - making it even more unsafe. simply having a ground wire does NOT IN ANY WAY replace a GFI, a ground alone is not much protection at all, and i did not mean to imply otherwise. but running a ground wire in combination with a 3-prong outlet can allow one to wire in a GFI and be as safe as a 4-prong outlet if done correctly.

And all of your advise is correct. You should not run this with a 3-prong dryer outlet without a ground that is grandfathered in and thus still up to code in an old house, but some people might be doing that anyway.

[EDIT: deleted, read the electrical primer, not trying to start a debate in this thread]

i mean only to report that the configuration did not kill me or ruin my equipment, not that it is safe or should be done. (it isn't and it shouldn't)
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Old 03-16-2011, 12:44 AM   #717
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but running a ground wire in combination with a 3-prong outlet can allow one to wire in a GFI and be as safe as a 4-prong outlet if done correctly.
This is the way I have mine wired. My subpanel GFCI has 4 wires going to it (2 hots, ground, and neutral), but I am only using 2 hots and the ground out of breaker to power my elements. The 120 for my control panel plugs into a standard outlet (GFCI). I did it this way because I had a bunch of 6/3 wire laying around. I actually like it this way as I now use a timer to plug my control panel into, and it will automatically start when timer goes on.
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Old 03-16-2011, 01:00 AM   #718
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[B]A GFI can not run on a 3-prong cord (without ground) was my only point - making it even more unsafe.
Want to re-phrase? GFCI doesn't require a ground to operate.
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Old 03-16-2011, 03:53 AM   #719
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I thought a GFCI measured against the NEUTRAL to determine there was no deviation or loss on the circuit, thereby tripping the GFCI itself if it became 'unbalanced'?

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Old 05-30-2011, 02:35 PM   #720
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Some may be wondering how I mounted my SSR and heatsink.... here is how.
[SNIP]
The hole was cut with a jigsaw and the heatsink was epoxied to the back of the box centered on the SSR hole. I then ran a small bead of caulk around the edges of the heat sink....
I'm curious - is it wise to attach a heat sink with nothing but epoxy and caulk? Particularly when it's attached to the heat source? IMHO, it would be wise to attach the heat sink with at least one screw in case the epoxy softens...
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