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Old 02-25-2010, 01:57 PM   #641
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Thanks Lorena. People come here to read about the build, not sift through 4 pages of OT discussion. This is not the place.



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Old 02-25-2010, 02:15 PM   #642
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Um, having to refill the HLT whenever you pump water from it to keep the element submerged. Remembering to turn off the element when you transfer from the HLT so that you dont start the cooler on fire... etc.
Sounds like a job for yet another thermocouple and control cycle.
hard solder or hose clamp a TC to the element/s when element temps go above some number kill the power


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Old 02-25-2010, 02:18 PM   #643
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Sounds like a job for yet another thermocouple and control cycle.
hard solder or hose clamp a TC to the element/s when element temps go above some number kill the power
A float switch to lockout the element would be the most practical solution.
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Old 02-25-2010, 02:23 PM   #644
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A float switch to lockout the element would be the most practical solution.
I've been thinking along the very same lines as a couple people now who've built CB20s have burned up their elements by letting the kettle run dry. If anyone comes across an inexpensive, but reliable liquid sensor that can handle boiling temps, I'd love a ping.
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Old 02-25-2010, 02:32 PM   #645
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I'm pretty sure they can be bent to a certain degree.
Like The Pol said: Some can be bent. You just need to be careful. I had a camco high density 3500w element that I tried to bend and it shattered. There was ceramic inside the element and it just snapped.

The Pol and some other people have gotten other styles to bend with no problems. I bent my 5500w ULD element from Plumbing warehouse a bit with no issue. They are pretty cheap if you break one.
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Old 02-25-2010, 02:34 PM   #646
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I bent my 5500w ULD element from Plumbing warehouse a bit with no issue. They are pretty cheap if you break one.
Would you post a picture, post bend?
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Old 02-25-2010, 02:38 PM   #647
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I can later tonight. I am not sure you will see much. I just spread it out a bit and out of the way of the thermowell.

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Old 02-25-2010, 02:42 PM   #648
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I've been thinking along the very same lines as a couple people now who've built CB20s have burned up their elements by letting the kettle run dry. If anyone comes across an inexpensive, but reliable liquid sensor that can handle boiling temps, I'd love a ping.
Yuri and I have been collaborating on a bubbler level sensor with promising results. It's nice because it is no contact and self cleaning. I've had to shelve it on my end for a few weeks but it is high on the list of things to get done. It will require a logic controller to use however.

All that said, a float switch is still the best and closest to bullet proof configuration. A prox-switch solution may be just as viable as a float, but that needs further investigation as well.
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Old 02-25-2010, 02:48 PM   #649
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a float switch is still the best and closest to bullet proof configuration.
Would something like this work?

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/2A554
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Old 02-25-2010, 03:03 PM   #650
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I was thinking more of something like this - no moving parts:

http://www.gemssensors.com/content.aspx?id=1138



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