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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Equipment/Sanitation > BLING BLING Electric HERMS Conversion
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Old 12-16-2008, 10:25 PM   #21
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HAH! Yes, I should have added that I do not intend to use your personal narrative as a set of instructions. Should I subsequently impersonate a lightning rod it is totally unrelated.

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Old 12-16-2008, 11:12 PM   #22
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My pleasure... keep in mind that if I survive, it does not mean that YOU will. ONE reason I have a MultiMeter now.

I WILL CONTINUE TO UPDATE THE OP WITH PROGRESS, PARTS, PICS, PRICES, SUPPLIERS!
That was a multi meter??? Does it say Fisher Price on the back??
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Old 12-16-2008, 11:24 PM   #23
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VDC, VAC and resistance meter. To test my connections and areas where I DO NOT want there to be voltage. I know I have 243VAC at my outlet that will feed my control panel now.

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Old 12-16-2008, 11:25 PM   #24
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That was a multi meter??? Does it say Fisher Price on the back??
My late father used to use the term "Mickey Mouse" for describing the quality of certain electrical items . As he had to wire elevators, he was a bit fussy.
Oh, and for those of you trying to find the elusive SS straight threaded element nut, I was in sentry hardware today, and dont you know that, for 7 bucks, they sell an "element adapter kit" that has a nut, connected to a boltable flange, for adapting elements to...who knows what they intended, but it will work for what we need, and the flange can be easily removed with a grinder or a dremmel. 7 bucks..
To the Pol,
my a419 arrived today. Along with a pound of williamette. Not bad for a day at the post office. Im almost ready to start the hlt/herm build......I gave up trying to figure a safe way of using the 2000w 120v element, so I just settled with the 1500. I believe it will do just dandy.
Season Greetings to all!
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Old 12-16-2008, 11:29 PM   #25
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VDC, VAC and resistance meter. To test my connections and areas where I DO NOT want there to be voltage. I know I have 243VAC at my outlet that will feed my control panel now.
I'm just messing with ya Pol... ya gotta give a guy who flys multi million dollar aircraft crap now and then. Plus i'm jealous of all the cool projects you do.
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Old 12-16-2008, 11:39 PM   #26
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I am flattered... I am!

I really enjoy brewing and beer, but I also really enjoy designing and building affordable and useful projects to create it! I do my best to do it safely and thoughtfully... and I do gain most of my knowledge from this board alone.

The multi-million dollar aircraft thing... yeah, I dont think about that much. I think I am more proud of the uniform and wings than I am of the plane itself!

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Old 12-16-2008, 11:41 PM   #27
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Medo...

My senior, junior apprentice! The 1500V 120V element will heat the HLT just fine. It will take 90 minutes to get the HLT up to temp prior to brewing, after that performance is not an issue.

I generally power up my HLT while I am eating breakfast... by the time I am done drinking my coffee and scratching myself, it is time to brew!

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Old 12-16-2008, 11:44 PM   #28
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BTW... I was able to score (3) 120v 20A GFCI outlets to go on my control panel at Menards for $12.99 today!

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Old 12-17-2008, 02:32 PM   #29
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BTW... I was able to score (3) 120v 20A GFCI outlets to go on my control panel at Menards for $12.99 today!
So, you are doing GFCI on the brew rig side? I used a 50A GFCI breaker in my main box. This is the circuit that goes to the range outlet (6/3 wire). You don't want to have multiple layers of GFCI - it supposedly doesn't work right. So all of the electrical stuff on my rig is "normal" (not GFCI) but is protected in the main box. I have tested it and it does work (close neutral and ground is easy way).

Or does your rig run off of multiple circuits from main box? I was going to do that but the one big 50A circuit and plug was actually easier and a little cheaper. Plus, I use the 50A break as my master on/off switch.
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Old 12-17-2008, 03:38 PM   #30
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You are exactly right... multiple GFCI's will not work out. I know this too... why did I buy them? I am certain that I would have realized that prior to wiring them in!

I am running ONE circuit from my panel in my garage. It is a DP 30A breaker. The control panel will have (2) sides... MASH 15A MAX and BOIL 23A MAX. So I can easily run with a 30A breaker and #10 wire.

I will have 240VAC at 30A available in my control panel.

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