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Old 01-19-2009, 09:07 PM   #221
The Pol
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Originally Posted by conpewter View Post
Well I'll have to make sure there is no way to make my PID do manual mode. If not then I'll need to either get another PID/SSR combo for the boil pot, or perhaps use something from an electric range (infinite switch). A PID/SSR combo is just overkill for this (Heck it is overkill for my HLT too)

Whatchya guys think of this relay? I've run out of money for this project so even though I'd like another SSR, a relay would work (I could always use the SSR I do have for the quick switching of the boil kettle, and the relay for the HLT which shouldn't need to switch nearly as quickly)

American Science & Surplus : High Power Relay

I know I'd still need something to control the relay.

That relay requires 80VAC to switch... I dunno what you are going to get to control that relay, that is a large signal. When looking at your PID, see if it has a manual and auto mode, generally shown with an A/M. It is called % output sometimes... sucks if it doesnt have it.
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Old 01-19-2009, 09:28 PM   #222
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If you cut your voltage to 110VAC, you cut your watts by over 75%... meaning you will only have 1155W for the boil, which will not suffice.
Crap I knew that. Gonna use that principle in a RIMS system. Had a brain fart, I guess...


May could have 2 elements (120V each) and switch them on off independently if you really do not want another PID and SSR.
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Old 01-19-2009, 09:45 PM   #223
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Crap I knew that. Gonna use that principle in a RIMS system. Had a brain fart, I guess...


May could have 2 elements (120V each) and switch them on off independently if you really do not want another PID and SSR.
If you are going to go through all that trouble, and drilling in your kettle, you might as well save a few bucks for another PID and SSR.
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Old 01-23-2009, 01:43 PM   #224
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Well got the panel hooked up last night, the PID does not have any manual control. I think I'm going to just go buy the PID from auberins that you all have since we know it works (I found one in ebay that was 1/2 the price and said it had manual mode, but I can't find any information on it online and the feedback on the same item in an earlier auction says it does not work as described).

I have room in my control box for a 2nd PID and 30 amp plug, but I don't have the power. I'm using the (very cool!) cord that Kal pointed out at one point (30 amp 4 wire GFCI 17'). So I don't think I will put the second one in, instead I'll swap.

That leaves me with the old PID (that does work, but only in PID mode). I also will have another thermocouple for it (I ordered a 10' one instead of the 3' one it came with) so I suppose I could either sell it, or use it to control temps someplace else (I already have a fermentation freezer and keezer though). Maybe I'll use it as a thermostat out in my shop for my new heater fuzzy logic HVAC!

Thanks for the help on this guys, I'll start a thread once it is up and running and I can do pictures.

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Old 01-23-2009, 01:52 PM   #225
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Sweet glad to hear it is coming together!!

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Old 01-23-2009, 03:44 PM   #226
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I have room in my control box for a 2nd PID and 30 amp plug, but I don't have the power. I'm using the (very cool!) cord that Kal pointed out at one point (30 amp 4 wire GFCI 17'). So I don't think I will put the second one in, instead I'll swap.
Consider putting both PIDs in and using a switch to choose which is active. That's what I'm doing so that only one element will be on at once.

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Old 01-23-2009, 03:46 PM   #227
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Consider putting both PIDs in and using a switch to choose which is active. That's what I'm doing so that only one element will be on at once.

Kal

Good idea Kal... but if you are only using an SSR... you will always have one hot leg to the element remember. If you are truely talking about only switching the PID on and off. True the element wont heat, but dont forget abou the current being there. Build on brothers.
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Old 01-23-2009, 05:48 PM   #228
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Well, my build is on hold due to the economy dropping a hugh smelly load of downsizing on my head........ let got after 13 years. The good news is that my former boss who sold the company i was just laid off from, he wants to hire me to work for him.

Problem is that he has a non compete clause from the sale that states how he can't hire people from my company for a certain period of time. Now the way it was written, it was ment to protect my company from my former boss in trying to hire people away from them. I was laid off... not lured away. So i have a call into my former company to see if they will allow me to persue this new employment.

The worst case scenairo is i hire a labor atty and sue them. The one thing on my side is that California is a Right to Work state, and these matters usually work in favor of the employee.

So i wait....... hopefully i'll be back on track with my build soon.

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Old 01-23-2009, 05:53 PM   #229
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Damn Stile...

That IS bad news, brewing aside. I just recieved my order from Midwest today, my hops from Nikobrew yesterday... Now I just need time off work to brew it up and video it!!

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Old 01-23-2009, 07:04 PM   #230
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Good idea Kal... but if you are only using an SSR... you will always have one hot leg to the element remember. If you are truely talking about only switching the PID on and off. True the element wont heat, but dont forget abou the current being there. Build on brothers.
That's very true. One leg of the 240v (ie: 120V) will be active to the element. Something to keep in mind. IMHO You should always turn everything off *completely* when cleaning. I'm going to have a large disconnect switch on the wall for this. (Or someone could simply unplug the 30A plug from the wall or unplug the element from their control box. I prefer switches as it's faster/easier).

My build is going .... slowly. Got my 16x16x8 NEMA box for the control panel yesterday along with a bunch of pilot lights/switches/alarms/etc but they sent me 240V incandescent bulbs for all of my pilot lights instead of 120V LED bulbs. One of the switch contactors was broken too. New ones are in the mail. In my Auberins order one SSR was cracked in half, one out of three PIDs didn't work right (output voltage didn't work), and they sent the wrong type of RTD sensors. Sheesh. Everyone's been good at replacing stuff but man, have I ever been unlucky. My B3 disconnects are on backorder for 6 weeks just to make matters worse. I've got a pile of equipment in the corner now. It's not making beer yet.

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