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Old 09-23-2009, 02:50 AM   #21
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For those folks that have to have the stainless steel look, buy the cheap brass version and have in nickel plated at your local chrome plating shop.

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Old 10-05-2009, 06:02 PM   #22
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I ordered one of the Dial Mfg. float valves and am going to try it out on my cooler.

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Old 10-05-2009, 06:15 PM   #23
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For those folks that have to have the stainless steel look, buy the cheap brass version and have in nickel plated at your local chrome plating shop.
Here's some from U S Plastics:

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/pro...oduct_id=12596

The specs say the metal parts are SS and they are dirt cheap. The float is HDPE and NSF rated.
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Old 10-05-2009, 07:27 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by Catt22 View Post
Here's some from U S Plastics:

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/pro...oduct_id=12596

The specs say the metal parts are SS and they are dirt cheap. The float is HDPE and NSF rated.
The US Plastic solution is almost perfect. I batch sparge because it is so simple so I would love to be able to attach a piece of silicone hose on the end to lay on top of the grain bed. It would be perfect if they had a 1/2" NPT on both ends.
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Old 10-05-2009, 08:46 PM   #25
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The US Plastic solution is almost perfect. I batch sparge because it is so simple so I would love to be able to attach a piece of silicone hose on the end to lay on top of the grain bed. It would be perfect if they had a 1/2" NPT on both ends.
I took another look at that USP float valve. I'm not sure it would hold up to the heat exposure. They do have one with 1/2" NPT threads on the valve, but again, the valve body is PVC and I think it would soften when exposed to the heat. Close, but no cigar I think. I may have to settle for a brass swamp cooler valve. I don't have an aversion to brass as some do.
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Old 10-06-2009, 12:12 PM   #26
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I took another look at that USP float valve. I'm not sure it would hold up to the heat exposure. They do have one with 1/2" NPT threads on the valve, but again, the valve body is PVC and I think it would soften when exposed to the heat. Close, but no cigar I think. I may have to settle for a brass swamp cooler valve. I don't have an aversion to brass as some do.
Brass don't bother me either.
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Old 10-06-2009, 03:23 PM   #27
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Here's a different option and what I'd do if I decide to switch to fly sparging. I'd treat it just like an old fashioned gravity feed chromatography column. If you can make the lid to the mash tun airtight, then as the wort drains out, it is automatically replaced by the same amount of water from your HLT. No valves needed other than the one on the MLT outlet. The trick, is getting the lid to the MLT airtight. If you don't, then the hot water will likely flow in too fast, and might eventually start leaking. This would happen to me occassionally while running columns in grad school

Like this. Look familiar at all?



Buffer reseervoir = HLT
Stationary phase = grain bed
Frit = false bottom/manifold

This is after all what we do in reality - column chromatography, and there is even a style of chromatagraphy called, you guessed it, batch chromatography

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Old 10-06-2009, 03:39 PM   #28
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It would be pretty hard to get most MLT's to be airtight.

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Old 10-07-2009, 02:51 PM   #29
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I'm thinking a wooden lid with a routed edge to hold a small tire innertube. (if I can find the right size). The innertube would be inflated to create a seal. One bonus is that the height is then adjustable. They make large home wine fermenters with a similar arrangement - an inflatable ring around the edge of the lid which allows them to be minimize headspace with variable sized batches

Like this:

Variable Volume Tank - 100L

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Old 11-04-2009, 10:40 PM   #30
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THis might be a dumb question but how do you hook your sparge water line to this? Does it have some kind of Quick connect or something on the end? I cant tell what it is from the pics.

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