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09-22-2009, 06:02 PM
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#11
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Location: Twin Cities, MN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Catt22
I don't see any means to adjust the water level with the Hartford loop arrangement. I suppose you could fit a tube inside a tube with some kind of a compression fitting to seal the joint. This would allow you to vary the height of the overflow weir to control the water level.
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My bad, I never finished my thought.
I was thinking of having a threaded T at the bottom, and having different Hartford loops that you could screw in depending on whether you were doing a 10 lb, 15 lb, or 20 lb grain bill....all it is is a piece of copper pipe with a T at the top...not exactly expensive...
Edit: Or, have 3 or 4 T's built into the vertical part of the Hartford, each with a valve on it. You open the valve at the level you want your sparge water to be at.
Last edited by shortyjacobs; 09-22-2009 at 06:05 PM.
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09-22-2009, 06:03 PM
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#12
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In yo' garage, steelin' yo parts.
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I do the same thing with two valves. Set it and forget it.
Both stainless, fully adjustable, works with pump or gravity, and cost less than $20.
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09-22-2009, 06:05 PM
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#13
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Cowboys EAC
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Not worth it IMO.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by duffman2
I dub this beer the Double Slutty Triple Nutty Bodacious Booty Brunette!
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09-22-2009, 06:08 PM
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#14
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Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Austin, TX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shortyjacobs
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Assuming it works...It's still susceptible to mash tun overflow from a stuck sparge.
This is a better solution.
__________________
Doggfather Brewery
Planned: Lambic, American IPA
Fermenting: 6 gals of 1.090 stout (Belgian) & 6 gals of 1.090 stout (English)
Tapped: Berliner Weisse, Black English IPA, German Pils, & Live Oak Primus
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09-22-2009, 06:17 PM
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#15
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Vendor and Brewer
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Location: Piscataway, NJ
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The cool thing about incoming float valve is that the speed of the runoff takes the lead and not the other way around.
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BrewHardware.com
Sightglass, Refractometer, Ball Valve, Weldless bulkhead, Thermometer, Decals, Stainless Steel Fittings, Compression Fittings, Camlock Quick Disconnects, Scale, RIMS tube, Plate Chiller, Chugger Pump, Super Clear Silicone Tubing, and more!
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09-22-2009, 06:19 PM
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#16
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Location: Oconomowoc, Wisconsin
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I really like this idea but think it is silly they used brass. Maybe we can find an affordable alternative? The level valves at McMaster are all about $600, so that is out.
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09-22-2009, 06:27 PM
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#17
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Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Albuquerque, NM
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These valves are readily available as swamp cooler water level control valves. I've only seen brass ones...
You could easily do this with a liquid level sensor and a solenoid shutoff valve.... something I've been thinking of exploring....
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09-22-2009, 11:40 PM
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#18
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Location: Lapeer, Michigan
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Half the fun of homebrewing is making your own stuff. My sparge arm which covers the whole grain bed equally only costs about $5 to make.
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09-22-2009, 11:59 PM
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#19
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Location: woodlands texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deuce
I think it works like the "float" on a toilet, it lets more water in, as the float moves down, pretty simpe devise you could probably build yourself.
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it is basically the float on a toilet. i do carpet cleanig for a living and the machines have 3 of these on them just look up mechanical float switch on an carpet caeaning parts supply sites. im pretty sure you could find this part wholesale for maybe $15 bucks
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09-23-2009, 02:05 AM
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#20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leboeuf
These valves are readily available as swamp cooler water level control valves. I've only seen brass ones...
You could easily do this with a liquid level sensor and a solenoid shutoff valve.... something I've been thinking of exploring....
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Yes, essentially a swamp cooler float switch. They are really cheap and readily available. Here's one for under $10.00 :
http://www.usahardware.com/inet/shop/item/83650/icn/20-250589/dial/4153.htm
I may attempt using one of of these in my MT just like the Blichmann device only my DIY version will clamp to the side of the kettle. I want to be able to quickly and easily install and remove it. I don't have an aversion to brass or plastic and I don't have a stainless fetish, so it looks like it will work with only minimal add-ons outside of some hose barb adapters. It will be very cheap to try anyway.
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