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Old 02-06-2014, 04:14 AM   #41
ssgross
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Looking good. to answer a previous post, the blichmann burners have about 4 inches above the face of the burners to the kettle. I'm not entirely convinced that the #51 orifice is optimal for the Blichmann burner. I can confirm that it works. no soot, and about an hour to take 10 gal from 50f to boiling. i tried 3 other sizes, and like this one the best. The largest was the orifice valve from brewers hardware. it was satisfactory with the damper fully open and the valve only 1/4 open. This made the flames lazy, and no where near the same heat output.

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Old 02-06-2014, 01:52 PM   #42
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Thanks again for the help, I'm defiantly going in the right direction, I feel that once I remove some plumbing the #51 orifice will work better for my system too. My regulator is at the end of the gas rail, I'm going to move it to the middle and shorten the piping runs to the burners, then I feel that the smaller orifice will do better. Again thanks for all the help, this is the first time I can say that I've made forward progress towards better heat output.

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Old 02-10-2014, 02:08 PM   #43
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So I brewed this weekend, while I've not achieved the same results as the OP the performance of the burners is better, 12 gallons of 50 degree water to 150 in 45 min, not too bad.

I've made a decision, right or wrong, to ditch the BG-14 burners for 8" jet burners, I feel the BG 14 burner is way too big for the amount of LP I'm pushing. I can get a jet burner for about $30.00, hell with all the trips to lowes and the countless brass fittings to fit a 5/8 line to a 3/8 orifice I could have purchased two jet burners. Jet burners are designed for low pressure LP, really I don't think the banjo burners are.

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Old 02-02-2015, 06:37 PM   #44
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According to tejas smokers they recommend a size 42 for the blichmann burner. I ordered one and asked them to drill it that way, but I don't think they drilled it out because the flame was very weak with the valve opened all the way. It actually would not boil 8.5 gallons whereas despite flame stability issues the supposedly smaller orifice from brewers hardware boiled with no problem. borrowing drills from one of my techs and I will try size 42 and report back.

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Old 02-02-2015, 06:45 PM   #45
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was their recommendation for low pressure or high pressure? Also, what size line do you have going to the burner?

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Old 02-03-2015, 01:53 AM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by herc1354 View Post
ssgross, thank you SO much for the help, while I'm not quite getting the results you are I'm moving in the right direction, this is what I've accomplished...

Adapted the orifice to accept 5/8" plumbing, however from the Honeywell valve to the burner is about 60" of plumbing, so really to get the most out if this system I need to shorten the LP supply lines.

I've mounted my regulator directly to the gas rail.

Currently the larger orifice seems to give me the highest flame, although with yellow tips, while the smaller orifice does not seem to do so well. I think with shorter LP lines I'll be able to use the smaller orifice and achieve the best BTU performance. The attached photo shows why I have such long gas lines, I wanted on/off valves as well as I needed the cross beams to mount the gas pipe to. Attachment 177389
Herc - one other thing you could try is raising the height of your burners. I run my bg14's at 3.5" below flat bottom kettles.
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Old 02-08-2015, 06:23 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ssgross View Post
was their recommendation for low pressure or high pressure? Also, what size line do you have going to the burner?
I have a 12 foot 3/8 id hose from a "Gas Plug" brand gas quick connect on my house running 11" water column propane (the pressure that runs normal household appliances.

The Texas smokers orifice wasn't drilled out as specified and I drilled it out, unfortunately I broke the valve and orifice when I reinstalled it. I made a eureka moment though.

Big yellow smoky flames mean that there is not enough air coming through the air shutter. While it was disassembled I realized that the air inlet under the damper is much bigger. I decided to try the burner without the damper installed with the Brewers hardware orifice, it runs very well. Wind produces a little yellow flame and sooting but it gets back under control pretty easily. I'll be adding a needle valve to the Brewers hardware orifice and can handle a little sooting.

Not sure no damper is the right long term solution. Will be bringing the damper into my shop to enlarge the openings.
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Old 02-08-2015, 06:24 PM   #48
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tl;dr if you have yellow flames and sooting try removing the damper to get more air to the burner.

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