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Old 02-10-2011, 05:29 PM   #91
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Yes, I use an immersion chiller to cool the wort to under 80-degrees. Then I remove the chiller, give the wort a good whirlpooling, cover the wort, then let it sit for about 30-mins to let everything settle in the center of the kettle. I keep the wort covered while chilling/whirlpooling so nothing bad gets in.

Whirlpooling works well most of the time but I have had large objects like clove spices, etc., block the drain tube even when whirlpooling so I'd still recommend using some sort of a screen or hopblocker when brewing with spices or lots of hops. On the rare occasion when my drain tube was blocked I remedied the situation by transferring the wort with a standard racking cane and siphon hose. (side note: always have a racking cane and siphon hose nearby as a backup!) Eventually I will purchase or make something to help prevent these blockages but right now I'm being a tightwad.

Definitely use the 1/2" NPT x 3/8" ball valve attachment to transfer the wort to your fermentor. Without this part you wouldn't be able to attach a siphon hose. When using the ball-valve I use a short (4-inch) 3/8" hose to transfer the wort to my fermentor bucket in a "noisy" fashion that also helps aerate the wort.

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Old 02-10-2011, 05:37 PM   #92
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Awesome, thanks for clearing everything up. Currently I use a siphon sprayer so I think i'll keep using 3/8" tubing with the siphon sprayer into the carboy and then top that off with my aeration pump for plenty of aeration.

That HopStopper you linked looks awesome, but it's actually more expensive than the Blichmann Hop Blocker. Don't think i'll get either yet though.

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Old 02-11-2011, 07:52 PM   #93
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make yourself one of these:

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Hop_Filter

It works great, is supper cheap and keeps most of the hops contained. I have used mine with a Boilermaker and a plate chiller and have not had any trouble. Works better than any other hop blocking device i have used.

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Old 08-13-2011, 02:23 PM   #94
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Quick question for those who own the 10g pots. I do all grain brew in a bag and was thinking about buying the 10g Blichmann. I am currently only able to do half batches because I only have a 5 gallon pot so I was thinking about buying the Blichmann 10g so I could do full 5 gallon batches.

Do you think this is an ideal pot for what I am trying to do ? Any potential issues that I am not thinking about with this pot ?

I dont want to go out and spend $325 if there is something I am missing. I have built the hop filter in the post above mine.

Thanks for the info.

Edit - Oh and any add ons I should consider ?

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Old 08-13-2011, 07:17 PM   #95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wingfan13 View Post
Quick question for those who own the 10g pots. I do all grain brew in a bag and was thinking about buying the 10g Blichmann. I am currently only able to do half batches because I only have a 5 gallon pot so I was thinking about buying the Blichmann 10g so I could do full 5 gallon batches.

Do you think this is an ideal pot for what I am trying to do ? Any potential issues that I am not thinking about with this pot ?

I dont want to go out and spend $325 if there is something I am missing. I have built the hop filter in the post above mine.

Thanks for the info.

Edit - Oh and any add ons I should consider ?
The 10g kettle works great for 5-gallon BIAB batches. I'd suggest getting the kettle without the built-in thermometer (assuming that's an option) because you'd have to remove it for BIAB anyways. The thermometer probe will snag or block any bag/basket you try to use.

Even though the 10g kettle works great for most 5-gallon batches you may want to consider getting a 15-gal kettle because it will give you more room for brewing very high gravity beers.
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Old 08-14-2011, 02:39 PM   #96
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seven View Post
The 10g kettle works great for 5-gallon BIAB batches. I'd suggest getting the kettle without the built-in thermometer (assuming that's an option) because you'd have to remove it for BIAB anyways. The thermometer probe will snag or block any bag/basket you try to use.

Even though the 10g kettle works great for most 5-gallon batches you may want to consider getting a 15-gal kettle because it will give you more room for brewing very high gravity beers.
I bought it with the probe as it came with it. I am now trying to figure out the best way to get my wort cooled and transfered to the fermenter. I currently brew inside on the stove and have to move my brew pot to the sink to hook up my wort chiller. I was thinking about just buying this stainless 1/2" to 1/2" barb and maybe some short hose.

http://www.northernbrewer.com/defaul...-1-2-barb.html

Blichmann says to not move the pot when full but is that for safety reasons or are they worried about the handles being able to hold that weight ?

I am just trying to figure out the best way to do this.
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Old 08-14-2011, 05:16 PM   #97
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Blichmann says to not move the pot when full but is that for safety reasons or are they worried about the handles being able to hold that weight ?
This thread may help: http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/blic...arning-173220/
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Old 09-08-2011, 04:53 PM   #98
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I have two of there fifteen gal boil maker. I my self do not like the pots. They are very pricey for what you get . It is like this i know how to use a drill and I can put a bulkhead fitting into that hole . I just felt for the amount of money I spent there was going to be some good that came out of it besides beer.On both pot the sight glass is not calibrated for the pot,it is like his littel girls put it togeter. Buy the polar ware pot ss nipples are 2.15 and couplings 3.50,so for around half to three quartes of the price you will get ten time the pot . Drill your own holes with a step bit support your friend or local welder and get it weled up you will love it. I know blichmann dose not make his own three peice ball valves but the are good so i would buy those again .

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