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Old 08-04-2014, 06:00 PM   #1
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Default Blichmann Boilermaker G2

http://www.blichmannengineering.com/.../boilermakerg2

Seems underwhelming at the most, liner flow valve….really???



All I see is 3 orings that will need to be replaced vice a ball valve that has a teflon seat that rarely needs replaced. Enhanced finish- yea we just took another step out of the production and still raised prices.

Personally I would rather have the G1 pot. Now your on the hook for replacement orings and they are charging 20 bucks more for a stainless pot that looks like aluminum...

Thanks Blichmann

File Type: jpg Parabolic_valve_disassembled_web.jpg (75.4 KB, 1202 views)
File Type: jpg G2-20gal_web.jpg (40.9 KB, 1200 views)
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Old 08-04-2014, 06:07 PM   #2
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Fugly...

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Old 08-04-2014, 07:33 PM   #3
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Would have loved to see an Induction option... and/or Tri-Clover option.

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Old 08-04-2014, 08:52 PM   #4
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Default Blichmann Boilermaker G2

I'm not really sure the benefit of the valve, other than looks easier to clean than a regular ball valve. Is it a larger internal diameter for greater flow capacity?
Don't like the look of the handle hangers that extend into the kettle.
Polished, meh..
Would like to see etched volume markings, a recirculation port, preferably tangential, and a tri ply bottom for durability and improved boil efficiency for those using gas. Tri clover option would be sexy, but I gotta admit, I prefer using QD connection on the hot side. So much easier to swap them without burning your hand compared to TC.
I totally understand the lack of an electric element port - because they are marketing their own electric solution, and a pretty damn sexy and innovative approach as well (despite the Negative Nancy comments in another thread), that seems plug and play literally.

Been looking for a new kettle, and nice to see that they made some innovations. I have been looking at spike, stout, and bru-gear. Very happy with my set of Blichmann kettles, just need a larger boil kettle for 90 minute full wort boils on ten gallon (finished volume) batches. The 15 gal size doesn't cut it for that job. I'll take a closer look at their website later tonight to see what else is improved.

TD

Oh one thing I do notice, is that the lid is different, and seems might be easier to achieve a sealed lid if you wanted to go Lonny Mac and ferment in one. That's sort of cool.

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Old 08-05-2014, 07:55 PM   #5
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I think part of the increase must be due to increased US construction and increased use of US parts, for those that care about that issue.

As for the o-rings, I have used similar o-rings in my aluminum pots for years, and have not replaced them at all in the ones that I don't disassemble. I haven't found any need to disassemble most of the pots unless I'm playing with different configurations. Even if you want to take the valve apart to clean it, they last a LONG time, not a worry. Finally, you can probably order a 50 pack at McMaster Carr for a very reasonable price, so I wouldn't let that stop anyone if they are interested in the pot.

The thing about the pots that makes me mad is that the thermometer is so HIGH! Why do they put it so high? I don't see why it would ever be an advantage to have it so high, except for the fact that it is inline with the valve and so looks better. I like the Spike Brewing pot design where the welds are not inline so the ports can all be lower on the pot, allowing small or large volumes.

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Old 08-05-2014, 08:17 PM   #6
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Thermometer can be moved and the pots usually come with a hole plug for the stock hole.


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Old 08-05-2014, 08:22 PM   #7
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You have to admit it's kind of annoying to have to drill another hole right away in a $400+ pot though! I agree, it's easy to redo though. I guess most people are filling them at least half way, so it's usually ok.

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Old 08-05-2014, 08:24 PM   #8
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The hole plug kit is NOT included with a pot, that's an extra $5.99.....

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Old 08-05-2014, 08:37 PM   #9
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proprietary valve I feel is a very bad move.

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Old 08-05-2014, 08:45 PM   #10
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The thermometer is high to avoid frying it from the heat of a gas burner.

As for the new design, from a purely aesthetics standpoint, I prefer the old design without silicone/nylon on the pot & lid handles and valve. From a manufacturing perspective the look appears "simplified" and probably costs them less (ie: not polishing the stainless should cost less).

I don't care for the valve either - from an HMI (human machine interface) standpoint the ergonomics doesn't work well as you have no idea how the valve is set by simply looking at it. A ball valve you only have to look at to know if it's open, closed, 50% open, etc. For this one you have no idea. That's (IMHO) dangerous.

Not sure how many turns to go from closed to open but it may be more work too if it's multi-turn. I only ever have mine all the way closed or all the way open (the pumps do the work and valves on the output of the pumps are used to control flow as you cannot control flow into the pump, only out). So first thing I'd do is swap out the specialized valves for standard full port ball valves like the old models. I don't like the proprietary nature of it either (I prefer non-proprietary over proprietary any day - I can replace parts easily without having to go back to the manufacturer for their specialized part).

Also don't like that I can't easily put a RTD or TC thermometer in line on the output sticking out front. It has to go to the side with a Tee. In other words, I can't do this orientation anymore:





My 2 cents!

Kal

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