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Old 03-19-2008, 11:39 PM   #1
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Default bending copper

I just picked up 20ft of half in OD soft copper at Mernards for $23.00 pretty good price. I am going to build a immersion chiller with it and don't want to screw up, so do I use one of those spring thingies to bend so I don't kink it ? Do I need to heat the copper? should the coils be at the bottom or top or evenly spread out? What's your experiance with this? thanks

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Old 03-19-2008, 11:45 PM   #2
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`It can be bent by hand, but you might kink it, so one of those coil things is advisable. Also finding a round form to bend it around is handy. No need to heat it.

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Old 03-19-2008, 11:46 PM   #3
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Default Use your hands & the spring...

I bent mine around the deep fryer basket that came w/ my turkey fryer. Actually I formed it to the inside. It was too big otherwise, too much material was near the edge of the kettle.

I used the spring bender to do the top 90's leading out of kettle.

I used 50' though. Its really efficient.



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Old 03-20-2008, 01:52 AM   #4
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Whats this spring thingamigyg you speak of? I will be making an IC soon and haven't heard of this yet.

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Old 03-20-2008, 02:03 AM   #5
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You can bend the coil by hand around a form, jut don't try to get any tight 90 degree turns.

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Old 03-20-2008, 02:18 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IrregularPulse
Whats this spring thingamigyg you speak of? I will be making an IC soon and haven't heard of this yet.
This is a set. You slide them over the tubing and bend it. The tubing will bend but the pressure will only be on the outside. The inner part that would otherwise kink will slide inside the spring coil so it gets a clean good radius. It very simple and easy to use. I never got a kink and I bent up to a 90 very easily.

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Old 03-20-2008, 03:28 AM   #7
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Get a corney keg, either own or borrow, and wrap it around the keg. It will fit nicely into just about any boil kettle. Straighten out the copper and start the coil and spin the keg as you wrap it, that way you stay close to the keg and minimize the chance for a kink.

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Old 03-20-2008, 08:42 AM   #8
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Thanks for all the advice. I've got a spring and a corny keg so I'm shure evrything will go just fine

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Old 03-20-2008, 10:12 AM   #9
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Here's a heat exchanger I recently did ( same as the IC ) , check it out:



Building a Heat Exchanger, or Immersion Chiller-they are pretty much one in the same.

This one is 1/2" OD type "L" copper :

So right out of the box , we are almost there, just need to re-coil the copper to the diameter I wanted:



Re-Coiled around my grain pot



I like to use rigid copper to add to the stability and shape, so I added an elbow, and a lenght of pipe back up to the top




With one side rigid, I used my helper to strip some 14/3 copper wire, he's cheap,very reliable, and I teach him everything I know


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Old 03-20-2008, 10:13 AM   #10
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With a long piece of bare copper, I start the braiding process, I believe the equal spacing inproves the efficiency of the heat exchange, it also serves to add strenght to the shape.The process is, around the pipe, then 3 twists, then repeat. I use a scrap piece of 3/4" wood to keep the spacing even, a clamp completes the task



Finished with braiding, see how it stands on it's own, next up to solder each pipe to the riser on the vertical side



After a good cleaning, I solder each coil to the vertical pipe, this is a pain, but really worth the effort. Again, a few clamps make the job easier--- hint, lower your torch a bit, and use plenty of flux. Once finished, clean all joints with steelwool.



Installed into kettle, connected I/O, pretty simple


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