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Old 12-16-2008, 04:21 AM   #61
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Thanks for the photo that clears up my idea about NOT removing the cable to the probe besides the RTD idea.
In the probe lead is that a two conductor with a grounding shield wrapped around the outside of the conductors and if so is it grounded at the 460 unit?
I'm thinking for my use to cut the probe cable close to the probe then using Radio Control model gold plated connectors in the right conductor count allowing for simple removal of the keggles for transporting, storage or cleaning of the brewing system. Silicone seal the cable entering the probe as well the cable cover, grounding shield and wires inside at the cut end behind the connector making for a waterproof probe as well.

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Old 12-16-2008, 10:23 PM   #62
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Quote:
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Thanks for the photo that clears up my idea about NOT removing the cable to the probe besides the RTD idea.
In the probe lead is that a two conductor with a grounding shield wrapped around the outside of the conductors and if so is it grounded at the 460 unit?
I'm thinking for my use to cut the probe cable close to the probe then using Radio Control model gold plated connectors in the right conductor count allowing for simple removal of the keggles for transporting, storage or cleaning of the brewing system. Silicone seal the cable entering the probe as well the cable cover, grounding shield and wires inside at the cut end behind the connector making for a waterproof probe as well.
No, the wire is fairly standard two wire with no shielding. It is not required anyway, as the Mash tun is grounded. However to answer your next question, a much simpler and cheaper way to get portable with the probe would be to get yourself a set of bayonet type connecters, they have been used in the industry for years. I know they are old tech, but they must work, because even Fluke still uses them for their temp sensor hook ups on their high end testing equipment . Anyway just a suggestion. S.
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Old 12-17-2008, 03:41 AM   #63
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No, the wire is fairly standard two wire with no shielding. It is not required anyway, as the Mash tun is grounded. However to answer your next question, a much simpler and cheaper way to get portable with the probe would be to get yourself a set of bayonet type connecters, they have been used in the industry for years. I know they are old tech, but they must work, because even Fluke still uses them for their temp sensor hook ups on their high end testing equipment . Anyway just a suggestion. S.
You must be talking about banana plug connections where the male end has four slits for a spring loaded tight fit in the socket. I have those for my Fluke 87 but would not want the male end with that hollow connector end getting wet from washing the kettles. For the small size I still believe those RC connectors with gold contacts would make a cleaner looking connection plus no corrosion and false resistance readings changing the siginal to the 460 Beta controller. There may be more connectors available on the market, I just haven't looked for them yet. All good ideas.
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Old 12-17-2008, 04:59 AM   #64
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After having a couple of PM's always with quick replies and right to the point of my questions by Adam i've come to the decision in the near future to purchase a 460 Beta unit. His answers were none of those beating around the bush type many manufactures reply with about their products. For now i'll just have to be jealous of the new 460 Beta owners. My aggressive or abrassive questions towards the product were always answered in a gentlemanly like manner by Adam, hats off to you sir.
I'll start increasing my bier brewing money pot collection as a 460 purchase will be in my future. Thanks Adam and the 460 tesrers for all your answers and putting up with me and my BS questions at times.
NUFF SAID............Carl...............

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Old 01-02-2009, 03:11 PM   #65
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I got mine, just started programming it. Slowly figuring things out. Next I need to rig some weldless fittings to install the probes. My programming thus far is simple, since I just have two pumps and do HERMS. Heat strike is manual, dough in, drop IC into HLT, turn pump on and off to maintain mash temp. Next I need to get Asco solenoid valves, pilot valves and pilot burners to turn my burners on and off! Then I can get 3 or 4 way solenoid valves and route liquid where I want it with float valves, etc. I can see how this may never end..

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Old 01-02-2009, 03:22 PM   #66
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Welcome to the club p4ck37p1mp! The BCS-460 will make upgrading your system a ongoing and enjoyable process. Also easy. S.

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Old 01-08-2009, 12:56 PM   #67
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I'm on the waiting list no worries in delivery time as the back's the main problem preventing the building of the new brew system for a while. Anyone have an idea for a liquid level control for the MLT without using any mechanical unit or float system? Any way to use a two conductor probe type of unit to maintain the MLT liquid level that can be connected to the 460 unit to control a pump? My thinking the probe unit must need some electronic unit with it for the proper signal that the 460 unit can use within the 5-20 ma signal load. A two conductor probe on a tube with a wing nut and stud adjustable on a stainless rod. Set it for different brew volumes and grain amount levels plus how much liquid maintained above the mash. Just thinking of another addition for a automated system. Any ideas out there?

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Old 01-08-2009, 01:53 PM   #68
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I've seen some out there, but I forget where. One setup had to nodes, one on, one off. It was pretty slick. There's also the switches at McMaster-Carr. Search for Liquid Level Switches.

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Old 01-08-2009, 02:50 PM   #69
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I was planning on using float switches for my fly sparge. Not sure how they'd need to be wired to the inputs on the bcs yet.

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Old 01-08-2009, 04:19 PM   #70
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Float switches are probably the most economical. And easy to interface to the BCS-460 - connect one wire to +5V, and the other to a Din. So if Din=On, the switch is closed, Off = open.

Another option that I just ran across on the web:
Check these out:

http://sensing.honeywell.com/index.c...ment/1/re_id/0

These sensors look very cool, and easy to interface to the BCS. But they're a little pricey. They work by using an internal LED, and when the no liquid is present all of the light is reflected back. When liquid covers the dome, some light escapes, and the sensor sends a 5V on/off back to the controller. I wonder what it does in the presence of foam (or splashes). Anyone use anything like this before?

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