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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Equipment/Sanitation > Bazooka screen + false bottom = stuck sparge
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Old 05-09-2014, 06:33 AM   #11
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I would try a mash with just the bazooka. No real good reason why, I'm just a braid guy.


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Old 05-09-2014, 08:06 PM   #12
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I tried using that same false bottom but the mash was too thick above it, almost 2 gallons of dead space. After i took it out i haven't had any problems with the bazooka screen only.

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Old 05-10-2014, 01:35 AM   #13
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Thanks, I appreciate the response. When I unstuck it I noticed that the grain was also clogging the holes of the FB, maybe the bazooka solo is the way to go then. I'll post an update one way or another after the brew session tomorrow, fingers crossed

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Old 05-13-2014, 06:50 AM   #14
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I used the false bottom with the dip tube on my last brew. I didn't get a stuck sparge, but I did get some particulate matter in my run off. I used just the bazooka tube when I boiled, and it strained the particles out well (think the whole hops helped clear it too).

I am very interested to find out how your mash turns out with just the bazooka screen. I have considered switching to a copper manifold and ditching the false bottom.. But if you get good efficiency with just the bazooka, I don't see why that wouldn't be the way to go. Are you fly sparging or batch sparging? I've heard that when fly sparging with a bazooka tube that channeling might be an issue, but I think as long as you get good distribution of sparge water over the grain bed it should just work fine.


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Old 05-16-2014, 01:54 AM   #15
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I went with just the bazooka using nearly 40lb of grain and mashing in kettle with a single batch sparge. It worked fairly well, it stuck with a few gobs of flour on the first vorlauf run but after I cleared that it flowed pretty freely. I had quite a bit of coarse grain at first, perhaps the size of rough ground pepper, but after I did a vorlauf with about 3-4 gallons total (~1 gal each run) it cleared up nicely. I didn't have any tunneling issues but also had a mighty bed of grain to work with and kept my ball valve less than 50% open except to clear that initial clog. I had nearly 2 gallons of trub and hop left over after the boil and the bazooka also kept it rather well filtered. I'll likely continue with this method and scrap the false bottom unless another use surfaces for it

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Old 05-26-2014, 11:03 PM   #16
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Glad to hear your bazooka screen worked for 40 lb of grain! Wow you must have been making a big batch (or high gravity)!

So I brewed another IPA on Saturday using just the bazooka screen in the mash tun. It worked pretty well! I got ~ 77% efficiency and it didn't get stuck at all. I did, however, notice a BIT of channeling on the grain bed during the fly sparge. There was a "mound" in the middle of the grain bed and it was lower around the perimeter. But I think this may be attributed to the way my sparge manifold distributes the water. Being that I still got good efficiency, I think fly sparging with the bazooka tube works just fine. Eventually I will probably build a copper manifold.. But for now I am gonna stick with the bazooka.


I now use the false bottom during the boil to filter out the hops when transferring to the fermenter.. Worked great for that!

Cheers bro!

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Old 11-12-2014, 07:47 PM   #17
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Little bit of an update on this thread if anyone is interested...

I have done 2 more brews since my last post here using just the bazooka screen for mashing. With a 10 minute mash out and 50 minutes of fly sparging, I hit almost 90% efficiency on each brew. I also changed the grind setting to 0.025 and ran the grain through the mill twice (which I'm sure helped to bump efficiency). The bazooka screen never clogs, but it does look like I get channeling when fly sparging (around the edges). At near 90% efficiency though, I don't think there's much I need to change with my "current" mash equipment.

I say +1 on using the bazooka screen with fly sparging. On another forum I read that fly sparging with a bazooka will drop your efficiency, but I think it works just fine on smaller batches.

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Old 11-12-2014, 08:17 PM   #18
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Your 50 minute fly sparge likely helped to avoid Channeling....interesting to see what a batch sparge would do besides saving a half hour or more
Congrats on your success!


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Old 11-12-2014, 09:02 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brewtus_Maximus View Post
I say +1 on using the bazooka screen with fly sparging. On another forum I read that fly sparging with a bazooka will drop your efficiency, but I think it works just fine on smaller batches.
I mash in a the typical round Rubbermaid cooler, but I too swear by the bazooka screen. I never get stuck runoff's/sparge's with any of my beers and the only one I need to use ricehulls with to avoid a stuck runoff is my pumpkin ale cause of the puree in the mash. I do wheat beers often with a tight gap setting on my mill and no problems at all. Only ever tried a false bottom once and that's the first time I used the cooler mash tun. Instant stuck sparge. The false bottom apparently wasn't perfectly flat and grains went right underneath and clogged it up. Sent it back and got the $50 refunded and went with a $17 bazooka tube. Couldn't be happier. My efficiency is a quite consistent 81% which I am more than happy with.


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Old 11-13-2014, 04:56 PM   #20
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I got the false bottom as part of the kit that came with my Bayou Classic 10 gallon brew pot, so I don't think I can return it like you did.. Now that I'm not using it for mashing, I use it in the boil pot to strain out the hops. After I'm finished chilling the wort, I drain the pot into my fermenter, and the beer is strained through the bed of whole hops on the false bottom. Straining through the hops not only increases hop aroma, it also works to aerate the wort! I'm sure other folks have tried doing this.. Wouldn't really work if you use pellet hops in the boil. But I thought I'd just throw it out there as an idea!

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