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04-07-2010, 07:54 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: culver city
Posts: 180
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Anyone heard of using induction heating for brewing?
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Saw this article in the NY Times and was wondering if anyone has experience with using that method for brewing, and if so, what was used and how big of a system you've seen.
Seems like it might be an interesting way to brew. From what the article said it sounds like the health dept. requirements might be laxer for this type of heating (no need for venting, etc) so it could be especially interesting for small commercial breweries.
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04-07-2010, 08:17 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: VA
Posts: 303
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I haven't used one for brewing but used them while overseas in Japan. They are incredible for cooking. Heated super fast, pretty sweet to deal with. I don't know about the BTU's and how powerful of one you would need to boil on.
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04-07-2010, 09:31 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Fort Collins, CO, Colorado
Posts: 478
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I have been wondering if an induction "burner" would be good for brewing ever since I saw an induction range in Sears.
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04-08-2010, 06:49 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 613
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Induction elements are pretty efficient at converting electrical energy into heat, since it's actually causing the metal of the pan itself to heat up. There's not much loss as far as radiated heat is concerned, etc. There is one big problem though:
Copper bottomed pans, aluminium pans and most stainless steel pans are generally unsuitable for induction cooking. You have to have an expensive tri-clad stainless pot that has an inner layer of iron, otherwise the induction effect doesn't work well enough.
While induction heating is more efficient than a similar electric stovetop element, it is not measurably more efficient than an immersed heating element. Immersed elements basically have all the benefits of induction cooking, and none of the limitations as far as cookware is concerned.
__________________
Primary:
Secondary: Bee Cave Robust Porter (with coconut)
Kegged: Cascade/Citra Amber Ale
Last edited by MacBruver; 04-08-2010 at 06:53 AM.
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04-08-2010, 12:55 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Bloomington, IN
Posts: 419
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I want someone to create an induction RIMS system out of a length of SS tubing. I was thinking about it for a while and then removed RIMS from my system design. It would be very cool in my opinion.
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04-08-2010, 02:27 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Greensboro, NC
Posts: 969
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I saw one in action at my boss's house. He brought a pot of water to a rolling boil in a minute. My first thought was "Whoa that'd be awesome for homebrewing..."
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04-08-2010, 02:52 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: NW
Posts: 1,583
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The Health Department shouldn't be regulating a fire/building code. That being said, if it is installed and designed to be used permanently, it does technically fall under exhaust code and they can require a Class 2 hood if they want to. If you are producing grease laden air then they can require a Class 1 with fire suppression.
Expensive pans are not required, but you are stuck with stainless, carbon steel and cast iron. The baser the metal the better and 18/8, 18/10 will not work properly. In the case if a triclad pan, the core is aluminum not iron and it is the 18/0 outer layer that works on the burner. However, I have seen top of the line induction ready Vollrath Tribute pans not work on Wolf residential ranges. Word on the street is that many manufacturers dial their ranges to only work properly with their pans, so you have to watch out for that.
You also lose efficiency if the diameter of your pan is much bigger than the burner.
And... the cost of a hotplate that would provide the necessary heat is prohibitive for a homebrewer. You would need a 3500W, 208-240v unit and they can run a couple thousand dollars for a good one from Vollrath or Cooktek.
But they sure are fun. Especially when doing a demo and you remove the pan of boiling water and set your hand on the burner. Freaks people out.
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04-08-2010, 11:16 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: culver city
Posts: 180
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Quote:
Originally Posted by northernlad
The Health Department shouldn't be regulating a fire/building code. That being said, if it is installed and designed to be used permanently, it does technically fall under exhaust code and they can require a Class 2 hood if they want to. If you are producing grease laden air then they can require a Class 1 with fire suppression.
Expensive pans are not required, but you are stuck with stainless, carbon steel and cast iron. The baser the metal the better and 18/8, 18/10 will not work properly. In the case if a triclad pan, the core is aluminum not iron and it is the 18/0 outer layer that works on the burner. However, I have seen top of the line induction ready Vollrath Tribute pans not work on Wolf residential ranges. Word on the street is that many manufacturers dial their ranges to only work properly with their pans, so you have to watch out for that.
You also lose efficiency if the diameter of your pan is much bigger than the burner.
And... the cost of a hotplate that would provide the necessary heat is prohibitive for a homebrewer. You would need a 3500W, 208-240v unit and they can run a couple thousand dollars for a good one from Vollrath or Cooktek.
But they sure are fun. Especially when doing a demo and you remove the pan of boiling water and set your hand on the burner. Freaks people out.
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Thanks, I guess I meant the fire dept. or whatever. I've been learning about who codes what a bit, but was not sure regarding hoods and the like. Interesting to know, and a new set of codes for me to look up. I guess this would be expensive for a homebrewer, but maybe costs will continue to come down. I guess it is also not really commercially feasible since I am guessing the price goes up with the surface area required to be heated.
MacBruver, when you say immersed, do you mean electrical heat sticks, or jacketed stainless or?
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04-08-2010, 11:24 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: NW
Posts: 1,583
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Update has an 1800W 120V unit that we sell for less than $300. I gave it a run with my 20qt stock pot with 4 gallons of water. It performed as well as my glass top range and brought it to a vigorous boil with the lid on but only a mild boil with the lid off. It would be pretty good for heating sparge water I guess, but only really for those of us still doing 5 gal batches.
It is amazing technology and super efficient, but still pricey.
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04-09-2010, 12:35 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 613
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Quote:
Originally Posted by commonlaw
MacBruver, when you say immersed, do you mean electrical heat sticks, or jacketed stainless or?
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Heat sticks, or elements mounted directly in kettle.
__________________
Primary:
Secondary: Bee Cave Robust Porter (with coconut)
Kegged: Cascade/Citra Amber Ale
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