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Old 09-11-2012, 04:28 PM   #1
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Default Aluminum vs. stainless steel Kettle

OK gang,
I need a larger brew kettle and am looking on pro/con on stainless vs. alum kettles. Any thoughts?
Thanks in advance~!


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Old 09-11-2012, 04:30 PM   #2
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How about reading the sticky thread in this same section???

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/faq-aluminum-pots-boil-kettles-49449/


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Old 09-11-2012, 04:35 PM   #3
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How thick is your wallet? How much do you desire a shiny kettle? The beer will taste the same IMHO FWIW.
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Old 09-11-2012, 04:35 PM   #4
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Thanks Golddiggie~! I'll check it out. I have never found a good explination for this on the homebrew level. I appreciate the help~!
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Old 09-11-2012, 04:36 PM   #5
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Or the section from the PRO/CON analysis sticky in the beginners section?
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Old 09-11-2012, 04:41 PM   #6
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Check out the thread Revvy's linked to as well.

Once you've conditioned an aluminum kettle, it's 100% safe for brewing. Just read up on doing so (basically, boil as much water in it as you can) and remember to leave the layer on the inside.

I've used an aluminum kettle (I made it from a 32 qt stock pot) before. My brew-buddy uses it now. I've migrated to keggles for the mash tun and boil though. I also have a 10 gallon kettle I made for an HLT as well as the 10 gallon BoilerMaker I purchased some time ago. Moving forward, while the size is still good, I'll be making/using keggles. I have a few 'spare' kegs I can convert, as well as a fairly local source for more of them.
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Old 09-11-2012, 04:46 PM   #7
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I've been doing split batches for years and it's time do brew in one pot. I appreciate the help from everyone~! I can arm myself with an alum kettle and attach a ball valve and site glass for less money than a plain SS kettle! Why wouldn't I.............
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Old 09-11-2012, 04:52 PM   #8
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Aluminum is fine, but don't drill holes in it for ball valves made of steel/bronze... that'll eff sh!t up
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Old 09-11-2012, 04:53 PM   #9
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Just be sure to get the correct size aluminum pot to convert into the kettle. I'd also use a stainless (3-piece) ball valve and get a dip tube to work with it. You can go with the 1/2" NPT to 1/2" compression fitting, a few washers, silicone washers/o-rings, and dip tube all from Bargain Fittings. Should be about $45 plus shipping. The dip tube will help you to extract more wort without having to tip the kettle to extract. Also, use 1/2" ball valves, not 3/8" for this. If you want to go larger, you can, but make sure you can get everything in the larger size (1/2" NPT is far more common).

BTW, I've designed, and make, my own sight tubes/glasses. All stainless fittings and borosilicate glass tubes for it. No worries about temperatures this way (unlike with the polycarbonate tubes).
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On Tap: Caramel Ale, Mocha Porter II, MO SMaSH IPA
Waiting/Carbonating: 12.5% Wee Honey II, 8.9% Old Ale, English Brown Ale, Lickah ESB, Mocha Porter II
Fermenting
K1: MO SMaSH IPA
K2:
K3: TripSix
On Deck: Caramel Ale
Aging:mead
Mead [bottled]:Oaked Wildflower Traditional, Mocha Madness, Blackberry Melomel, maple wine


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Old 09-11-2012, 04:55 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brulosopher
Aluminum is fine, but don't drill holes in it for ball valves made of steel/bronze... that'll eff sh!t up
Google galvanic corrosion


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Recipes Worth Brewing... Over and Over and Over Again:
Tiny Bottom Pale Ale (House Pale Ale)- Sessionable, crisp, earthy/floral
Brulosopher's Dark Brown Ale - Creamy, subtly complex, incredibly quaffable
Brulosopher's Blonde Ale - Crisp, dry, nice malt-hop balance

"The surest way to corrupt a youth is to instruct him to hold in higher esteem those who think alike than those who think differently." - FN
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