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Old 11-05-2012, 06:17 PM   #31
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Due to the responses I've had I decided not to pursue with the compressor. As I head toward higher OG brews I need more oxygen, not more air which has only a litle oxygen. So now I'm looking at the likes of the Oxynator and the Bernzomatic O2 tanks from Home Depot. However, we go to great lengths to keep our brews bacteria free and I'm not sure about these canisters.

I've also seen empty 20 cf tanks from Harbor Freight, cheaper on eBay even wih shipping, that cost about the same as nine Bernz cans. I'm a bit confused as to the compatibility of tank valves and the Oxynator or other regulators, where to get the tank filled, what that will cost and whether the O2 quality will be any more assured than that of the Bernz or if it's worth going to all this trouble and expense. I think a 20 cf tank might last longer than me!
To date all I've done is shake my bucket. If I were dissatisfied with my brews I might have given up but I'm not so it must be working. In fact last time I forgpt to aerate until after I pitched. That one is still in 2nd stage so don't know how it's going to turn out. Weds I brew again, a 1050 from NB and I won't have the O2 set up but I might use a perforated spoon to whip some air in. Easier on the body!

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Old 11-05-2012, 06:30 PM   #32
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Here's one O2 regulator that will work with a welding O2 tank. Very similar to one of the ones I have. I simply connect that to the O2 wand I got from William's with some 3/16" ID Bevlex tubing, with a clamp on the fitting to the regulator. Probably don't need the clamp with the low flow that's going through it, but I'd rather be 100% safe than have it come off.

As for getting the O2 tank filled, AirGas will do it for pretty short money. I'm actually planning on exchanging one of my 20 cubic foot tanks (once it's empty) for a 60 to use with welding again. Total cost of the exchange, and fill, is under $60 ($30 for the exchange). I would expect the O2 fill/exchange of a 20 cubic to be under $20.

Also, the red bottles of O2 are typically 1.2-1.4 ounces of O2. The 20 cubic foot has more than 10x that inside it. Size wise, they're about the same as a 5# CO2 tank. I'll look to see what the weight of the tank is (tare weight) and see how much O2 (by weight) is inside a full one. I'll post up later when I have that info.

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Old 11-05-2012, 11:32 PM   #33
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we go to great lengths to keep our brews bacteria free and I'm not sure about these canisters.
i doubt any bacteria can live in a 100% O2 environment.
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Old 11-09-2012, 06:09 AM   #34
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So I've done more research on O2 tanks and I'm starting to get my head around the differnet valve types and the numbers etc. I also went to look at one in Harbor Freight. What I don't understand is why, if the tanks has a valve on it, I would need an additional regulator, which is essentially another valve. I don't believe I really need to measure the flow with guages; I'm just going to squirt oxygen for 30-60 seconds keeping my eye on the brew and the foam.

Why do I need a regulator like the one Golddiggie referenced or any other? Can I simply connect my tubing and stone via some kind of adaptor to the threaded valve on the tank?

One other question...what am I looking at on the opposite side of the valve, is that some kind of vent?

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Old 11-09-2012, 06:13 AM   #35
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So I've done more research on O2 tanks and I'm starting to get my head around the differnet valve types and the numbers etc. I also went to look at one in Harbor Freight. What I don't understand is why, if the tanks has a valve on it, I would need an additional regulator, which is essentially another valve. I don't believe I really need to measure the flow with guages; I'm just going to squirt oxygen for 30-60 seconds keeping my eye on the brew and the foam.

Why do I need a regulator like the one Golddiggie referenced or any other? Can I simply connect my tubing and stone via some kind of adaptor to the threaded valve on the tank?

One other question...what am I looking at on the opposite side of the valve, is that some kind of vent?
Without a regulator on the tank, the O2 will be coming out at full force. About 3000psi. Similar to how you have a regulator on CO2 tanks to control the flow of the gas out of them, you NEED a regulator on the O2 tank. Using a regulator with a flow meter is the best choice for O2 for this task. One with a pressure gauge is good for welding, but not brewing applications (I've tried it, so I know from experience).

The 'vent' you see is a safety release. IF the pressure gets too high in the tank (typically from being stored too hot) it will break and release the gas before the tank blows up.
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Old 11-09-2012, 06:18 AM   #36
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3000 psi? That would blow your fingers off your hand and send them through the sheet rock.

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Old 11-09-2012, 06:21 AM   #37
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3000 psi? That would blow your fingers off your hand and send them through the sheet rock.
Pretty much since they'll also be frozen solid.
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Old 11-09-2012, 06:48 AM   #38
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The disposable tanks from the hardware store coupled with a diffusion stone are easy to use. I figure I get roughly 5 batches out of a 10$ tank. In the long run, a refillable setup would be better, but that is low on my list. And in my area, I've found Airgas to be significantly more expensive for CO2 refills than Matheson, which might be just a regional chain.

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Old 11-09-2012, 01:54 PM   #39
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Once you have the tank, the O2 swap is pretty reasonable. Especially when you compare how much more O2 you get. Swapping my 20 cubic foot tank (about the same size as a 5# CO2 tank) is <$20. So, for no more than what you're paying for those 1.2-1.4 OUNCE bottles, I get many times the O2 amount. Judging by what I found from a google search, and weighing the full 20 cubic foot O2 tank, you get about just over 4 pounds of O2 in the 20 cubic foot tank. So, over 50 times the amount of O2 is in one of these small O2 tanks (compared with the typical 1.2oz O2 bottle). If you're getting the 'larger' bottle (1.4oz) it's over 46x the O2. You'll be paying far, far, far, far less (in the longer run) by going with even a 20 cubic foot O2 tanks (the smallest you can get for welding). Yes, it costs a little more than the red tanks to get setup this way (should be able to get everything, tank, regulator, etc. for under $150), but you'll save over time (compared with spending $460-$500 while using the red tanks).

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Old 11-09-2012, 06:09 PM   #40
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Once you have the tank, the O2 swap is pretty reasonable. Especially when you compare how much more O2 you get. Swapping my 20 cubic foot tank (about the same size as a 5# CO2 tank) is <$20. So, for no more than what you're paying for those 1.2-1.4 OUNCE bottles, I get many times the O2 amount. Judging by what I found from a google search, and weighing the full 20 cubic foot O2 tank, you get about just over 4 pounds of O2 in the 20 cubic foot tank. So, over 50 times the amount of O2 is in one of these small O2 tanks (compared with the typical 1.2oz O2 bottle). If you're getting the 'larger' bottle (1.4oz) it's over 46x the O2. You'll be paying far, far, far, far less (in the longer run) by going with even a 20 cubic foot O2 tanks (the smallest you can get for welding). Yes, it costs a little more than the red tanks to get setup this way (should be able to get everything, tank, regulator, etc. for under $150), but you'll save over time (compared with spending $460-$500 while using the red tanks).
this concept seems very hard for some people to understand but you said it well in this post.
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