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Old 12-20-2012, 02:51 PM   #11
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Golddiggie, no joke, he has been worthless as help. Told me to get the screws myself. Unmoved that it took 5 weeks for me to receive his product, etc. First time I would give a beer product customer service a 0. I can post my emails with him to prove.
Complete opposite was my interaction with him when I needed assistance with mine, after using it the first time or two. It might be faster/easier to get the correct spec screws where you are though.

I did send an email about a month ago, asking if they had a base pattern (opening and mounting hole) that they could email me. No reply at all to that email. :/ I didn't want to wait, so I just used the original one as a guide. Came out pretty good, except I made the dump hole a bit too wide.

Maybe they're a bit over-stressed with the holidays and such.
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Old 12-20-2012, 03:11 PM   #12
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I understand your frustration setting the mill. If you don't know what you're doing, it can be a little tough to get started.

FWIW - Fred at MM has been nothing but great to me as a customer and spent probably over an hour on the phone with talking about milling etc..


Anywho - I'm not sure if you bought the base for the mill, but it is imperative you get that mill mounted on a stable platform and have it aligned properly.

Once mounted - loosen both thumb screws and use a credit card to set the gap ON EACH END OF THE ROLLERS. Each end of the rollers need to be equidistant. If they are not parallel, you may experience binding during milling and a less than optimal crush.

Once you have the rollers set - go ahead and tighten those thumb screws down. At this time, get a fine tipped felt marker and mark the adjustment knob and mill body so you have your baseline adjustment. You want tick marks that you can easily line up on the adjustment knobs and body.

From here - you can mount your hopper and run about a 1.5 cups of grain through at a time to check the crush. After every small portion of grain you mill - you can loosen the thumb screws and slightly tighten the gap. You will be able to walk your crush in perfectly this way. It might take 1 or 2 brew sessions to have it perfected.

cheers
j

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Old 12-20-2012, 06:20 PM   #13
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This is his response to me about asking for the replacement screws.

The threads are 1/4-20. The MM-2 uses thumbscrews that are 3/4" long. You should be able to easily find these in a hardware store, or Home Depot/Lowes no problem. The guys that I've sent these to are in Europe and SAE fasteners are just not available there.

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Old 12-20-2012, 06:21 PM   #14
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In review that was the politest response I got from him, the rest were nasty about waiting 5 weeks for a mill that he had in stock the entire time.

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Old 12-20-2012, 06:28 PM   #15
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To be honest, you should be able to get those bolts/screws from HD or Lowe's for all of a couple of dollars. It will cost him more to ship you a pair. I got a replacement side piece from him at the time, so he included the hex screws for me. I had asked what they were so that I could get them myself.

Maybe it's the difference in how we communicated with him initially that made the difference. In his response to my initial email he mentioned about offering a full refund on return if I wasn't happy with it. I didn't want that, just wanted it to work best for me.

BTW, when I ordered mine, it arrived quickly, shipping out within a day or two. It was also in stock, but not even close to the holiday season. This time of year can be murder on vendors/suppliers/manufacturers. Since he's all three, you can only imagine the stress levels.

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K2: Epic mead
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Old 01-03-2013, 12:38 AM   #16
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I need to go over this thread. Mine is terrible. The thumb screws don't even touch the rollers so the gap spreads apart on first grain that goes through. So I too thought the big side screws set it in place.
Bookmarked. Thanks for the info hope this helps.

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Old 01-03-2013, 12:43 AM   #17
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I understand your frustration setting the mill. If you don't know what you're doing, it can be a little tough to get started.

FWIW - Fred at MM has been nothing but great to me as a customer and spent probably over an hour on the phone with talking about milling etc..

Anywho - I'm not sure if you bought the base for the mill, but it is imperative you get that mill mounted on a stable platform and have it aligned properly.

Once mounted - loosen both thumb screws and use a credit card to set the gap ON EACH END OF THE ROLLERS. Each end of the rollers need to be equidistant. If they are not parallel, you may experience binding during milling and a less than optimal crush.

Once you have the rollers set - go ahead and tighten those thumb screws down. At this time, get a fine tipped felt marker and mark the adjustment knob and mill body so you have your baseline adjustment. You want tick marks that you can easily line up on the adjustment knobs and body.

From here - you can mount your hopper and run about a 1.5 cups of grain through at a time to check the crush. After every small portion of grain you mill - you can loosen the thumb screws and slightly tighten the gap. You will be able to walk your crush in perfectly this way. It might take 1 or 2 brew sessions to have it perfected.

cheers
j
Wait a second, this says the hopper goes on after you set the roller gap?

I have the hopper going on the outside of the milling box and thus the thumbscrews had to be removed to get the hopper on.... am I missing something here?

See this photo, http://www.monsterbrewinghardware.com/images/prod_basehop_img4_lg.jpg
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Old 01-03-2013, 12:47 AM   #18
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Wait a second, this says the hopper goes on after you set the roller gap?

I have the hopper going on the outside of the milling box and thud the thumbscrews had to be removed to get the hopper on.... am I missing something here?
You are correct, the hopper goes on over the mill and the thumbscrews must be removed during initial setup.

If a remember correctly, there are also some bolts along the top which need to be screwed on after the hopper is attached.
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Old 01-03-2013, 12:51 AM   #19
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I would guess that the upper portion of the hopper goes on after the lower portion is installed w/ the the thumb screws tight. The hopper is two pieces, and should be separated when assembling the mill.

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Old 01-03-2013, 01:33 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by stompbox View Post
Wait a second, this says the hopper goes on after you set the roller gap?

I have the hopper going on the outside of the milling box and thus the thumbscrews had to be removed to get the hopper on.... am I missing something here?

See this photo, http://www.monsterbrewinghardware.com/images/prod_basehop_img4_lg.jpg
I worded that poorly, my apologies.

You are correct - the thumb screws go on AFTER the hopper is mounted.
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