Adding Sanitary Tri-Clamp Fittings to Kettle, MLT, & HLT - VERY CONFUSING... PLS HELP

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

WolfieBrew

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 7, 2010
Messages
71
Reaction score
0
Location
Kennesaw
I am about to pull the trigger on my order for sanitary fittings. I was hoping to get some quick answers (or any feedback) to a few of my concerns based on my rough sketch.

I plan to use 1" ferrules for all connections except for the (4) thermometer ports and (1) future heating element port (HLT) which will be 1.5". My intention is the hard plumb all my lines down the road but, to start, i will use rubber hose to connect my pump. I plan to start with 1"/1.5" Tri Clover X 3/4" Hose Barb fittings from BrewersHardware.com.

Per their item description: typically used to make a Tri Clover to 3/4" tubing connection, many people stretch 1/2" tubing over this fitting so they can maintain a full 1/2" bore through their system. By simply heating Silicone tubing or clear PVC tubing in boiling water for a few minutes, it can be stretched over this fitting providing a larger flow path.

It sounds like the 1/2" ID for lines and fittings is tried and true and meshes perfectly with the 809 march pump and I figured using the 1/1.5" ferrules on the equipment would lend well to expansion as parts are more readily available... and less expensive the 1/2"/3/4".

QUESTIONS/CONCERNS BEFORE ORDERING/WELDING:

1. The butt weld ferrules are 1.125" long (Dim A in pic). Will this allow enough space to attached tri-clamps on inside and outside of keg wall? My welder said go with the least expensive ferrules and they can make it work.

2. On the brew magic system, the fittings are about 3" off the walls of the kegs, will heat create a problem with the fittings being closer? I personally would not think so and I am sure many people have went this route because it is much cheaper than the long 3" fittings.

3. Any recommendations on positioning the thermometer, sight tube fittings to ensure that they don't interfere with one another? I added (2) on the MLT b/c I can always cap one if I don't want to use. Now is the time to add what I need.

4. Any suggestions for adding additional ferrules while I am having the welding completed?

Any feedback would be great before i dive into this stage of my project.

Thanks, :tank: Chris

scan0001.jpg


Photo.jpg


TC15B34.jpg


L14AM7.jpg
 
1. The butt weld ferrules are 1.125" long (Dim A in pic). Will this allow enough space to attached tri-clamps on inside and outside of keg wall? My welder said go with the least expensive ferrules and they can make it work.
I use butt weld ferrules from GVC.net that are only 0.5" for dimension A. They work fine, it is a tight fit but I don't have any issues getting a clamp on. This minimizes "dead space" inside the ferrule.

short_buttweld_ferrule1.PNG


2. On the brew magic system, the fittings are about 3" off the walls of the kegs, will heat create a problem with the fittings being closer? I personally would not think so and I am sure many people have went this route because it is much cheaper than the long 3" fittings.
I use electric elements so I don't worry about heat from flames. If you are using a burner it might be worthwhile to have some kind of heat-shield welded on below each fitting that is near the bottom. The triclamp and ferrules will take the heat but the gasket will most likely fail.
 
1/2 tri clover are 3/8 ID 3/4 are 1/2 ID and 1" are 7/8 ID I would use 1" at the min and that way you can have all the same size clamps 1 and 1 1/2 are the same clamp size.
larger hose size is ok and if you get a bigger pump you'll already set up for it
 

Latest posts

Back
Top