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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Equipment/Sanitation > About to throw in the towel...before I even begin (balancing questions)
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Old 03-31-2014, 01:24 PM   #11
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I'd be willing to bet that putting on a 10' beer line would solve your foamy pour problem.

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Old 03-31-2014, 05:35 PM   #12
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Something to keep in mind. If that keg was initially carbed at 11-12psi and you are now attempting to serve at a lower pressure, the CO2 will continue to break out of solution until the beer is decarbed down to the new pressure.

My recommendation remains the same. Longer beer line to match the carb level, and set serving pressure to match.

I guess the other solution would be to decarb the keg by releasing pressure a number of times to get the carb level to match the desired serving pressure.

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Old 03-31-2014, 06:14 PM   #13
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Ok I will adjust the beer line and get back to everyone. Since I initially carbed at 12PSI and I am now at 10PSI - is 1 week the time it takes to adjust?

Also, anyone have a link to a good "how-to" on adjusting beer length...this is new to me.

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Old 03-31-2014, 10:09 PM   #14
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Just for some ideas, I can give you my kegorator setup, maybe some of my ideas will help.

First, I found my normal beerline gave a plastic taste if beer sat in it for more than a day, so i upgraded to accuflex bev seal ultra line. Havent had a taste problem since. There is actually a thread that compares the taste of different beer line on the forum here: http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f35/beer...c-taste-60380/

The accuflex line has 1/2 of the resistance of regular line so you need 2x as much, I use 20ft 3/16 accuflex line.

To insulate the line in my tower, i installed copper tubing and insulated the tubing with old teeshirts. The copper tubing helps to transfer coldness from my fridge to the tower. It doesnt work perfectly but it definately helps. Some people install a fan to gain a similiar effect.

Imho the idea of balancing your kegerator should only be applied to bars where the time it takes to pour a glass of beer is important. At home, its not as significant if it takes you an extra 2-3 seconds to pour a beer. Therefore I recommend having extra line which offers extra resistance and will give a slower pour and retain more co2 in solution when the beer is in the glass. Also it allows you complete freedom on the temperature and psi pressure of your keg for different styles.

With my setup I can run at any temperature and any pressure and be ok.

Next, I recommend moving the co2 tank outside the keg and getting a 3 way manfold with one way valves and install on the outside of the fridge. The manifold prevents the beer from backing up to the opposite keg or regulator when your pressures arent balanced. Also you can turn off any/all of the 3 lines.

(I particularly use this feature when force carbing a pop bottle using a carb cap, i set the 3rd line to 30psi and turn off the other 2. Then after carbing i reset the regulator to 10 and reopen the other two lines.)

On your third line, I recommend using a mfl connector instead of the normal barbed one. This allows you to either pressurize using either a liquid or gas end or just remove the connector all together for purging)

Also, I recommend starting with a 20lb tank. They are only like 5$ more to fill, but you get 4x the gas. Also you dont have to keep running to the gas store to fill your bottle.

Finally, I installed a quick disconnect between the regulator and tank, It allows me to quickly swap my regulator out for a paintball fill station.

Hope some of this helps. GL!

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Old 04-01-2014, 09:41 PM   #15
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thanks for the input - good ideas to consider as I get into brewing my own beer.

Just picked up the new beer line from the local home brew store. I spoke to the owner a bit and he suggested that before changing the line, I should remove the keg from c02, let out the co2 from the keg and start with a low PSI like 5...from there I can work my way up. He also said I may need to go as high as 30PSI to shoot out all the foam.

Do you think I should take his advise and start with a lower PSI before messing with the lines? Not sure I agree with the going as high as 30PSI part...

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Old 04-01-2014, 10:52 PM   #16
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I'm not sure what "shoot out the foam" means unless your beer is pouring so slowly that bubbles are trapped between the low point in your line and where it attaches to the keg.

Does the foam originate at the tap or further back in the line?

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Old 04-01-2014, 11:50 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by barnaclebob View Post
I'm not sure what "shoot out the foam" means unless your beer is pouring so slowly that bubbles are trapped between the low point in your line and where it attaches to the keg.

Does the foam originate at the tap or further back in the line?
Yeah the pour rate seems to be OK now. It was pouring very slowly the second day I hooked it up, but there was no foam. Now it's the opposite and all foam which seems to be coming from the tap.

Still confused on why after re-pressurizing at 10PSI and bringing up the temp (it was around 34 and 12PSI when I started) I had beer spurting out of the tap, lots of air in the line...it calmed down now but still isn't pouring correctly - just not sure if longer lines will solve the problem. Keg woes.
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Old 04-02-2014, 07:34 AM   #18
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Ignore him, set the regulator to 10PSI, purge the keg to reset it to 10PSI, install the new lines.

The difference between 10PSI and 12PSI isnt going to be enough to be blowing non stop foam out of your lines if your using 10ft+ of hose.

There is the possibility that your keg is just way overcarbed at this point, if you still see foam with 10ft lines, unhook everything and just purge the keg every 12 hours as the CO2 comes out of solution..alternatively you could probably shake it a bit to speed this process up...then hook it back up at 10PSi and let it re-carb.

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Old 04-02-2014, 10:11 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by FuzzeWuzze View Post
Ignore him, set the regulator to 10PSI, purge the keg to reset it to 10PSI, install the new lines.

The difference between 10PSI and 12PSI isnt going to be enough to be blowing non stop foam out of your lines if your using 10ft+ of hose.

There is the possibility that your keg is just way overcarbed at this point, if you still see foam with 10ft lines, unhook everything and just purge the keg every 12 hours as the CO2 comes out of solution..alternatively you could probably shake it a bit to speed this process up...then hook it back up at 10PSi and let it re-carb.
I wish I had ignored his advice, but unfortunately I did not. I unhooked the co2, purged the co2 from the keg, and hooked back up at 5PSI. Waited about 45 mins between each attempt at pouring and subsequent adjustment (of 1PSI) to get back to 10ish, but I'm pretty sure this just made it worse. Each time I tried to pour I got only co2 out of the faucet. It's like the keg is empty (but it should have a couple gallons left based on my weight calcs). Do you suggest the remedy for overcarbed (i.e., unhook everything...purge the keg every 12 hours to remove co2 from solution)?
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Old 04-03-2014, 03:50 AM   #20
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Yes, unless your literally just dumping CO2 and no liquid then your probably empty...if your just pouring a ton of foam that eventually settles into beer purge it for a few days and try again.

Also hook up your new lines if you havent yet.

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