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Old 08-12-2008, 03:56 PM   #21
solstice
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I'd say use them, unless you're fairly sure you can get a pretty penny off them.


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Originally Posted by 7Enigma View Post
No need to claim, just go look at an old church's stained glass windows. Notice how they are much thicker at the bottom than the top. This is due to the glass "flowing" down over many MANY years.
Actually the cathedral glass theory is flawed. If glass really did "melt" as some people claim to happen with old panes of glass, then by that logic lenses in antique telescopes and obsidian tools would not stay as they were when they were created. Old glass panes are thicker on the bottom because of the method used to create the panes of glass, known as the Crown Glass process. Glass was blown into a ball which was flattened and spun into a disk, which would naturally cause it to be thicker where most of the glob stayed and thinner out towards the edges where centripetal forces pulled. These disks were then cut into panes and installed. Logic states that the thicker edge should be installed downward for more support.
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Old 08-12-2008, 04:24 PM   #22
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I'd say use them, unless you're fairly sure you can get a pretty penny off them.




Actually the cathedral glass theory is flawed. If glass really did "melt" as some people claim to happen with old panes of glass, then by that logic lenses in antique telescopes and obsidian tools would not stay as they were when they were created. Old glass panes are thicker on the bottom because of the method used to create the panes of glass, known as the Crown Glass process. Glass was blown into a ball which was flattened and spun into a disk, which would naturally cause it to be thicker where most of the glob stayed and thinner out towards the edges where centripetal forces pulled. These disks were then cut into panes and installed. Logic states that the thicker edge should be installed downward for more support.
Very interesting. I've never heard that explaination but it definitely makes sense (just checked the wiki on glass for some nice reading). I'd be interested to see where the myth originated that I told. Probably someone that didn't know how the glass was originally made, and just deduced that it had flowed over time.
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Old 08-12-2008, 04:49 PM   #23
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oh yeah I would never use it as a primary for beer, there great for mead which doesn't usually foam much. this link shows one just like what i have http://cgi.ebay.com/5-Gallon-Antique...2em118Q2el1247
I dont know exactly what yours looks like but I would try looking around ebay and on google for similar items for sale and see what people are asking. If you can decipher the info on the bottom you maybe able to find an exact match.
if you pay that much for an old piece of glass you should be shot.
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Old 08-12-2008, 05:02 PM   #24
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Most chemical bottles come with a protective coating that is basically a plastic covering them that also doubles as a UV blocker to prevent fungus and other nasties from growing in bottles. I have dropped these and nothing more then a crack and no mess. It is some kind of poly coat they use.

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Old 08-12-2008, 05:29 PM   #25
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Most chemical bottles come with a protective coating that is basically a plastic covering them that also doubles as a UV blocker to prevent fungus and other nasties from growing in bottles. I have dropped these and nothing more then a crack and no mess. It is some kind of poly coat they use.
Yeah, I work in a lab and we have several of these (several of our 4L vacuum flasks). Unfortunately they are all coated at the factory the glassware is purchased from. I'm looking for a paint or spray on liquid that would harden after application. It doesn't have to be bulletproof, just something that if I were to drop it (or more often just bumping it while holding it), it wouldn't shoot out deadly pieces. The biggest issue for me is its need to be clear, as the whole purpose of getting the glass in the first place (along with resistance to cleaning) was to see what is going on inside. PVC is a common coat that I'm assuming is not clear (dunno if the white and black I've seen it in is due to coloration).
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Old 08-12-2008, 06:09 PM   #26
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This may be something to look into. You can buy a gallon for 29 bucks. I think that would easily cover 2-3 carboys.

Or this.
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Old 08-12-2008, 07:04 PM   #27
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This may be something to look into. You can buy a gallon for 29 bucks. I think that would easily cover 2-3 carboys.

Or this.
I'll have to look into the first link more (since they offer many different types of coating), but that second link is a no go. That stuff will do absolutely nothing in the case of a rupture. What I want is something the consistency of the red plastic they coat the top of a Maker's Mark whiskey bottle with. It is VERY durable stuff that would definitely protect against a break. Now, it just needs to be clear and we are all set.
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Old 08-12-2008, 07:08 PM   #28
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For 6 bucks i would use them

I think glass is better.
Only broke two this year though
Dropped one on concrete
and dog knocked over another one.

Plastic is like having sex with a condom.
It works but seems something is missing

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Old 08-12-2008, 07:37 PM   #29
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I literally just bought 5 better bottles from Northern Brewer after reading this link. I'm getting rid of all my glass. $144 is well worth saving myself from a potential broken carboy.
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Old 08-12-2008, 07:42 PM   #30
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How much for you glass? i will give you $5 a piece

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