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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Equipment/Sanitation > 3 tier - plumbing for propane
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Old 09-15-2006, 05:32 AM   #11
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More for possible leaks in the piping or whatever. It's between the tank and the three regulators.

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Old 09-15-2006, 12:37 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by Dennys Fine Consumptibles
More for possible leaks in the piping or whatever. It's between the tank and the three regulators.
Just build it, and use a soap solution to check for leaks. Once the black pipe is buit and sealed with teflon tap your done.

You can add a ball valve in the run if it helps ya sleep
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Old 12-23-2008, 03:45 PM   #13
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Any more thoughts on this? How does one go about bypassing the regulator to connect the tank to the plumbing system? I really need to start working on this project, but I'll be honest it scares the crap out of me.

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Old 12-23-2008, 04:41 PM   #14
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Make sure you use the yellow teflon tape for gas...

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Old 12-23-2008, 04:57 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Monster Mash View Post
I used black pipe with teflon tape and teflon paste. Using both will guaranty it won't leak. I also used ball valves at eack burner, they adjust fine, are cheaper and allow for full flow. Just put a regulator at the tank.

I don't have any real good pics of the gas lines but I have a pipe going up the side.



This one shows regulators but I took them off and replaced them with ball valves.
Now THOSE are some good looking cans!
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Old 12-23-2008, 05:13 PM   #16
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I would suppose running high pressure up the stand guarantees that you get adequate flow to each burner. Just buy a crap load of various sized black pipe nipples and fittings, go home and make it work and then return everything you didn't use. That way you avoid multiple trips. You can get by with 3/8" black pipe given the high pressure.

Check out Mcmaster.com... item 77445A83

It looks like that threads onto the tank and presents 3/8" female NPT to the stand. However, make sure whatever you use to connect the tank to your stand can withstand 200psi. I wonder if air hose would work. It's got NPT threads and has a burst pressure of 300psi typically.

Also, you'll have to close all your regulators and very slowly crack open the tank valve. Having to fill the manifold up with gas requires this so that the safety valve doesn't trip. It needs to see back pressure or it will shut down.

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Old 12-28-2008, 09:51 PM   #17
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So now I'm thinking that I'm going to have the plumbing on the stand hook up to the propane tank via a regulator, as most seem to. Then I'd like to run lines to my two burners, with some kind of control method in between. Has anyone had any experience with these?
Control Valve $5.50
The only big problem that I see with them is that they are 1/4"NPT and my piping will be 1/2" or 3/8" so I would have to reduce on both sides of them before they go to the burners. If you look at my stand, you will see that I have a lot of room to work with. I'll only be putting burners on the top and bottom tier for now...

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Old 12-28-2008, 11:30 PM   #18
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Just use ball valves that are rated for gas as found in the plumbing section of Lowes or HD. 1/2" NPT is common.

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Old 12-28-2008, 11:32 PM   #19
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Quote:
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Just use ball valves that are rated for gas as found in the plumbing section of Lowes or HD. 1/2" NPT is common.
I've got a three tier and that's what I use. Since I am either using the top or the bottom burner, but not both, I just open and or close accordingly.
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Old 12-29-2008, 01:37 AM   #20
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My gas valve (that I used on my MLT dump valve) LEAKS!!!!!

I can shut it all the way off, but my MLT still drips about 2 drops per minute.

Gas valves are not the kittens mittens.

That is all, chat killer has spoken.

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