3 tier - plumbing for propane

**Denny's Evil Concoctions** · 09-07-2006, 09:41 AM

OK, 3 tier stand is almost finished. Need to plumb it for propane.

What should I use? What sort of fittings will I need and are the ones that screw into the burners very standard?

BTW, this thing is HEAVY. I'll post pics later in the show me your sculpture thread.

**Denny's Evil Concoctions** · 09-07-2006, 08:54 PM

I should know better than start a new thread in the wee hours of the moring, seems to get buried under all the new posts in the morning.

Can anyone help me out with the above?

**david_42** · 09-07-2006, 09:02 PM

Your best bet is 1/2 inch steel pipe, not galvanized. You could use gas flex line (corrugated stainless steel). That has the advantage that the plastic sheathing will start charring long before the line gets hot enough to be dangerous. Look in the water heater or stove area of a major hardware store or go to a Heating & A/C supply place.

All three burners I have use the same size fitting 3/8 NPT. One is a cast iron turkey burner, one a hurricane burner and one a camp stove. I'd still take a burner with me to the store.

**Denny's Evil Concoctions** · 09-07-2006, 10:26 PM

Thanks! Wasn't sure on the nipple size. I guess copper line is out of the question??

Monster Mash · 09-07-2006, 11:27 PM

I used black pipe with teflon tape and teflon paste. Using both will guaranty it won't leak. I also used ball valves at eack burner, they adjust fine, are cheaper and allow for full flow. Just put a regulator at the tank.

I don't have any real good pics of the gas lines but I have a pipe going up the side.

This one shows regulators but I took them off and replaced them with ball valves.

cap46 · 09-08-2006, 05:23 AM

Copper will work fine as long as you have all connections with pipe dope or teflon tape to prevent leaks. You can always find a adapter that will take you from copper to iron pipe threads if need be not really a problem as long as no leaks. Good luck. Your call.

Thirstyone · 09-08-2006, 06:32 AM

I used black pipe on my rig, and just screwed in the regs into t's

**Denny's Evil Concoctions** · 09-09-2006, 07:29 PM

Any problems going from regulator to burners (low pressure) rather than form tank (High Pressure) to a regulator at each burner?

If I go low pressure I should be able to go with copper. If I go to steel I have to get th threads put on the steel pipe at home depot, which means no tweaking once the pieces are made.

Probably try and go high pressure, but I'm having problems getting the LP nipples (tank side) off the regulators. They use some sort of LP lock tight. Afraid I'll break the ends off and I'm not sure if using heat won't wreck the regulators.

**Denny's Evil Concoctions** · 09-13-2006, 09:22 PM

OK, decided to go with high pressure from the tank into black pipe and then into thre regulators like you did.

A question. What pressure comes out of a LP tank? I'd like to intall a gas ball valve between the tank and the stand for emergency shut off since its quicker to shut off than shutting off the tank.

The natural gas ball valve I bought says max 150 PSI. Isn't LP under more pressure than that?

Edit: Actually it says:

Natural Gas 125 PSI Max 9BX3
600 W.O.G.
150 W.S.P.

Thirstyone · 09-13-2006, 11:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dennys Fine Consumptibles

OK, decided to go with high pressure from the tank into black pipe and then into thre regulators like you did.

A question. What pressure comes out of a LP tank? I'd like to intall a gas ball valve between the tank and the stand for emergency shut off since its quicker to shut off than shutting off the tank.

The natural gas ball valve I bought says max 150 PSI. Isn't LP under more pressure than that?

Edit: Actually it says:

Natural Gas 125 PSI Max 9BX3
600 W.O.G.
150 W.S.P.

Not sure why you need an emergency shut off. I never needed one cause the regs work fine! I would not bother