Yes it is a volume restriction for DIPA and TIPA with 6+ lb/bbl
New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA
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ihavenonickname
Well-Known Member
Right - for a 1.080 beer with 12-16oz of dry hop you really need about 6.5 gal of wort into the fermenter if you want a full 5 gal into the keg. (That’s 7.5 post boil for me) this might sound rediculous to some or obvious to others.
So I think the answer is just more volume to account for loss, not necessarily cryo. Like others I really like cryo/lupo/advanced hop product in the 20-50% range it seems like it helps the hops pop and come across as more concentrated but you can’t get rid of all the natural hop material out of the beer, it does something to the beer that is intangible(maybe?) and necessary for a full hop expression.
So I think the answer is just more volume to account for loss, not necessarily cryo. Like others I really like cryo/lupo/advanced hop product in the 20-50% range it seems like it helps the hops pop and come across as more concentrated but you can’t get rid of all the natural hop material out of the beer, it does something to the beer that is intangible(maybe?) and necessary for a full hop expression.
Interesting. I recently bought some Citra and Ekuanot hop hash that was on sale at YVH. I was thinking of brewing a hazy later this summer using Citra hash/Nectaron T90 hop combo. Sounds like mixing in some Citra T90 in addition to the Citra hop hash is the way to go.
12-16oz DH?? Holy shiiiii....I shoot for 7 gal of wort into my fermenter, and if I do 8oz+ DH I have issues getting a full 5 gal into the keg!
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ihavenonickname
Well-Known Member
Welp just do the math… 6 lbs per barrel is about 3 oz per gal. 6.5 gal in fermenter actually that’s 19 oz ! You’re gonna loose a gallon (or a little more) to the dry hop and half a gallon to yeast. That’s 5 gallons into a keg. If you wanna say 4lbs/bbl that’s gonna be a 13 oz DH and the volumes are similar, a little less loss of course.
Dgallo
Instagram: bantam_brews
I personally get 6 into the fermenter, rack to a dryhoping vessel with 13-15 oz of hops and yield exactly a full keg so 5.15 gallons. Equipment def will have different levels of loss. With my setup and the floating diptube, I got my loss down to 13-15%
T.O.M.B. Brewing
Member
Ive made 100% Cryo NEIPA's many times without any impact on head retention, body, haze or haze stability. My NEIPA's have been awarded multiple Gold, Silver and Bronze medals as well as a couple Mini BOS's, so there is plenty of eveidence that Cryo works, at least for me. I wouldn't hesitate to suggest use of Cryo for a NEIPA where such a large hop load can lead to intense hopburn and organic slickness.
If you want, try 100% Cryo in the dryhop and regular T90 in the kettle.
My $.02
If you want, try 100% Cryo in the dryhop and regular T90 in the kettle.
My $.02
T.O.M.B. Brewing
Member
Double post edit
T.O.M.B. Brewing
Member
Ive made 100% Cryo NEIPA's many times without any impact on head retention, body, haze or haze stability. My NEIPA's have been awarded multiple Gold, Silver and Bronze medals as well as a couple Mini BOS's, so there is plenty of eveidence that Cryo works, at least for me. I wouldn't hesitate to suggest use of Cryo for a NEIPA where such a large hop load can lead to intense hopburn and organic slickness.
If you want, try 100% Cryo in the dryhop and regular T90 in the kettle.
My $.02
Dgallo
Instagram: bantam_brews
These are all relative by brewer, however cryo has half the polyphenol content and polyphenols can add to haze and body. So less in, less out
I’m also typically around 16oz. 5# per bbl = (5x16) x 6.5 / 31 = 16.77 oz.
If you’re making beer you’re happy with, with 8oz, god bless you.
For those using a conical, I find that keeping a close eye on that sight glass really helps. With a small amount of pressure the hops eventually start to compact and essentially squeeze out a good amount of liquid. Drop small amounts at a time. I’ve been able to significantly reduce waste by refining process.
Dwaynehaze
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Just got a diaphragm valve at home finally to help with my loss issues
Dgallo
Instagram: bantam_brews
Found the article I was looking for.
If you want to read some Janish about the two, here you go. Lupulin powder is unpelletized cryo
http://scottjanish.com/lupulin-powder-vs-pellets-experiment/
Dgallo
Instagram: bantam_brews
Volume at the time of adding the hops. That’s really the only way to accurately do it (you could certainly subtract the trub if you have a reliable and accurate way to measure it). So if your fv has 6 gallons at the time of dryhoping, that should be the volume you use. This is true on the hotside as well
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100% agree.
While on this topic, I’m curious how everyone is measuring for water chemistry. For those of you who measure mash volume and add salts to that kettle, are you doing the same to the HLT (or sparge water)?
I don’t think there’s a right or wrong way to do this. Just curious what method everyone is using.
Do you think this will help if fermenting in a keg with a floating dip tube? I am sick over all the lost beer
What kind of pressure would be needed? How does pressure affect 1318/Verdant or what do you use?How/where do you use it to reduce loss?
Dwaynehaze
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Getting way better yeast dumps now that I added it . Used it yesterday for the first time and can't believe I didn't just do it sooner
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I've done Ward's labs a few times and the results are always similar. I put them into a calculator and add for mash volume accordingly (be sure you revise it for each beer and don't leave it left from the last one). I do a proportional amount for the sparge as well.
There are probably better ways but this is easy and seems to be working. I (think that I) can tell when I totally revise ratios and otherwise repeat a recipe.
Dgallo
Instagram: bantam_brews
I do not add salts to the kettle, all salts going in the mash and sparge. The only kettle adjustments I ever make are ph related. Since targeting a 5.2 - 5.25 mash ph I rarely ever need to adjust and hit 5.0 - 5.05 at knock out
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Shenanigans
Well-Known Member
Last week I brewed a quick and dirty Mikshake IPA with Voss at about 35oC that went from grain to keg in 4 days.
Started tapping it 2 days later.
SWMBO was out of town for 5 days so was the best brew I could think of to have a fully completed beer before she came back.
I cut a few corners on brew and packaging days
Did a true BIAB without a spage/rinse so ended up with about 1.064 OG instead of 1.070 - FG was 1.019
I also skipped a dry hop and didn't fully purge the keg; I just connected it to the gas and burped it a few times then filled, did the same after filling.
Drinking it now after 5 days on the gas and it tastes pretty good.
The hops are not really as instense as if I didn't cut the corners but I'm happy with it.
Let's see if it oxidises or rapidly looses it's hop flavour over the next weeks, if it lasts that long
Started tapping it 2 days later.
SWMBO was out of town for 5 days so was the best brew I could think of to have a fully completed beer before she came back.
I cut a few corners on brew and packaging days
Did a true BIAB without a spage/rinse so ended up with about 1.064 OG instead of 1.070 - FG was 1.019
I also skipped a dry hop and didn't fully purge the keg; I just connected it to the gas and burped it a few times then filled, did the same after filling.
Drinking it now after 5 days on the gas and it tastes pretty good.
The hops are not really as instense as if I didn't cut the corners but I'm happy with it.
Let's see if it oxidises or rapidly looses it's hop flavour over the next weeks, if it lasts that long
DevilsCups
Well-Known Member
I know this is likely a poor idea, but I'll ask in case anyone has attempted this before.....
As I posted before with my setup, I ferment in a keg with a floating dip tube etc. Has anyone tried putting a traditional liquid out dip tube on the gas-in side and used CO2 to agitate dry-hops when they settle? I have another entry for gas-in to purge and transfer when needed.
The two issues I see with this would be the obvious kick-up of yeast and trub, as well as doing this with spunded/slightly carbed beer. I figure the latter would be mitigated by keeping the vessel pressurized and using slightly higher psi to agitate and letting it equalize. A short burst, if you will.
The former is not ideal, but I'm not sure if it would be too detrimental if I let everything settle again. I'm not harvesting.
As I posted before with my setup, I ferment in a keg with a floating dip tube etc. Has anyone tried putting a traditional liquid out dip tube on the gas-in side and used CO2 to agitate dry-hops when they settle? I have another entry for gas-in to purge and transfer when needed.
The two issues I see with this would be the obvious kick-up of yeast and trub, as well as doing this with spunded/slightly carbed beer. I figure the latter would be mitigated by keeping the vessel pressurized and using slightly higher psi to agitate and letting it equalize. A short burst, if you will.
The former is not ideal, but I'm not sure if it would be too detrimental if I let everything settle again. I'm not harvesting.
